Cathedral Cities of FranceMarshall, Herbert, R. W. S.
History
Cathedral Cities of France
Marshall, Herbert, R. W. S.
Cathedrals -- France; France -- Description and travel
case of the Maid, “to acquit her would have been to accept her celestial
mission and place her, with some modern French historians, by the side,
nay, in the place, of the Messiah.” The trial and burning of Joan cannot
be looked upon by the light of a modern world; they are of their time,
and that time was, above all things, a superstitious one. And only after
her death did France realise what the Domrémy peasant girl had done for
her country. The French monarchy, as Louis XI. established it, is
perhaps the best monument to her memory. After, and as some say because
of, Joan’s death English prestige in Rouen began steadily to decline.
Two years afterwards, in 1433, came the death of John, Duke of Bedford,
brother of Henry V., perhaps the only man left with anything of Henry’s
strength and singleness of purpose. Rouen held out against two attempts
at recapture on the part of Charles VII., but in 1449 Somerset was
forced to capitulate to a strong expedition, and the English left the
town for ever.
By the middle of the next century we find Rouen in the thick of
religious troubles. In 1562 it was for six months in Huguenot hands, six
months of warfare, oppression and persecution of all Romanists within
the walls, with worse to follow; for when the Royalists recaptured the
town they repaid the Huguenots in their own coin, and revenged the
Catholic massacres with a terrible revenge. After this the Army of the
League held Rouen until, in 1596, Henry IV. of France effected an
entrance into the town.
Nowadays the first view of Rouen is a smoky, dreary little station,
surrounded by _cochers_ and porters in linen blouses; but Arthur Young,
an agriculturist of the eighteenth century, visited the old city during
his travels, before the days of the “iron way,” and he was more
fortunate in what he saw from his _diligence_: “The first view of Rouen
is sudden and striking; but the road doubling, in order to turn more
gently down the hill, presents from an elbow the finest view of a town I
have ever seen; the whole city, with all its churches and convents, and
its cathedral proudly rising in the midst, fills the vale. The river
presents one reach crossed by the bridge, and then, dividing into two
fine channels, forms a large island covered with wood; the rest of the
vale, full of verdure and cultivation, of gardens and habitations,
finish the scene, in perfect unison with the great city that forms the
capital feature.” To get this view to-day one must climb the long, dusty
hill to the convent of Bon Secours, or rather, half-way only, since the
city, river and meadows, show their beauties just as well from a lower
point, and the modern convent and church upon the hilltop are not worth
a further climb.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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