Cathedral Cities of FranceMarshall, Herbert, R. W. S.
History
Cathedral Cities of France
Marshall, Herbert, R. W. S.
Cathedrals -- France; France -- Description and travel
Lisieux looks like a town with a history, and, like most French towns,
goes back to Roman times, when it was known as Noviomagus or as Lexovii,
from the Gallic tribe which had settled there. Rolf obtained it as part
of his Norman duchy; Geoffrey Plantagenet and Stephen of Blois fought
over it and between them reduced the town to a terrible state of
famine, for which Henry II. of England tried to make amends by causing
his own marriage with Eleanor of Poitou to take place in the Cathedral.
Thomas à Becket took refuge at Lisieux on one occasion and left behind
him some vestments, which are proudly displayed in the chapel of the
_Hospice_.
During the Hundred Years’ War and the religious quarrels two centuries
later, Lisieux shared the fate of other towns as regards sieges and
conflagrations; but after this we hear little of its history, and may
assume that it emerged from its trials much as we see it now--busy and
peaceful once more, with leisure to turn again to the old-world town
routine which makes the Lisieux of to-day.
The interior of St. Pierre, according to Whewell, “bears a great
resemblance to Early English work, although the French square abacus is
still to be found here. The round abacus is noticeable in the arcades
under the windows of the choir, giving quite an English look to this
portion of the church.” There is at the west end a large interior porch,
which is referred to by most writers on architecture. The two towers
vary in their openings, one having lancet lights and the other small
round-headed windows. The nave is large, consisting of eight bays, and
built, it is said, about 1160. The tympana of the choir triforium arches
are filled with plate tracery, quatrefoil and cusped. The most
beautiful interior elevation, however, is that of the north wall of the
transept. Here the three large upper lights remind one of the well-known
“Five Sisters” at York. The lower double-light window is deeply
recessed, with elegant clusters of engaged shafts supporting the
graceful mouldings round the opening. The transept also possesses an
eastern aisle, which is said to be a rarity in France.
[Illustration: ST. JACQUES LISIEUX]
The church itself is unfortunately situated in a corner of the _Place_,
and a large building which abuts on its north-west tower detracts
considerably from its beauty and importance. The south transept door
opens into the Rue du Paradis--a name which one is glad to see preserved
in the neighbourhood of French cathedrals. It may refer to a garden or
close which has been absorbed by surrounding buildings, or to a
closed-in porch, the upper stories of which have been used either as
libraries, or as lodgings for chantry-priests.
Chapter Six
BAYEUX
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