Cathedral Cities of FranceMarshall, Herbert, R. W. S.
History
Cathedral Cities of France
Marshall, Herbert, R. W. S.
Cathedrals -- France; France -- Description and travel
The Lanterne des Morts, a quaint structure with a quaint title, raises a
perforated cone on the south-west of the Cathedral. This mediæval
lamp-post had it name from the fact that it was lighted whenever a
funeral procession passed through the town; and it must certainly have
added to the impressiveness of the scene, especially when, as was often
the case in old days, the burial took place in the dead of night, and
this red glowing beacon towered above the low roofs like a great funeral
torch as the chanting of the monks broke the stillness, and the sombre
figures with their burden moved into the church.
Returning to the three principal attractions of Bayeux noticed above,
the Cathedral--the only church of importance--falls naturally into the
first place. Entering by one of the five beautiful gabled doorways, one
stands on a platform above the level of the nave floor. The standpoint
being thus raised, the length of the church is apparently enhanced.
There is a church in Rome and another at Modena where this _coup
d’œil_ is effected by the street level being some twenty or thirty
steps above the nave.
The bays of the nave, especially in their lower compartments, are very
remarkable. Above the twelfth-century round-headed pier arches, and
reaching to the very small triforium balustrade, the whole wall face is
decorated with beautiful diaper carving. This surface decoration is to
be found in Westminster Abbey, but not in the same varied richness as on
the walls and spandrils at Bayeux. On one of the bays the old corbels
which carried the organ in the thirteenth century still remain. The
clerestory windows are beautiful in proportion and constructed in
double planes. The spandrils and tracery of the choir arches show
examples of early plate tracery.
In the treasury one of the most interesting pieces of furniture is a
large _armoire_ containing church vestments, and another example of
early joinery is to be found in the fine door in the south aisle. Here
huge planks, some eighteen feet in length, are fastened together by iron
bands and hinges, without framework of any kind. The two western towers,
together with the crypt, are said to be the only parts remaining of the
old church of Odo, brother of the Conqueror.
We made two unsuccessful attempts to obtain entrance to the Seminary
Chapel; but as it is said to be a very beautiful specimen of early
Gothic, the short description given by Whewell may perhaps act as an
incentive to other visitors, and spur them on to greater importunity
than we used. He considers it to be “the most elegant and complete
example of the Early English style. The details resemble those of the
Temple Church in London, in the shafts, capitals, vaulting, &c. The
arrangement of the east end is remarkable, uniting as it does in a
considerable degree the effect of the polygonal apse and of the east
windows, having diverging vaulting but with eastern lights.”
[Illustration: A STREET CORNER, BAYEUX]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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