Cathedral Cities of FranceMarshall, Herbert, R. W. S.
History
Cathedral Cities of France
Marshall, Herbert, R. W. S.
Cathedrals -- France; France -- Description and travel
Above the present town rises the monument known as the “Colonne de la
Grande Armée,” a memorial of the first Napoleon’s encampment at Boulogne
in 1804, and of his magnificent preparations for the invasion of
England. In the Château, which dates from the thirteenth century and is
now used as barracks, Napoleon III. was confined after his abortive
descent upon the town in 1840. It was the second of these desperate
attempts to dethrone the “constitutional king” Louis Philippe and
reinstate the Imperial dynasty. The expedition to Strasburg four years
before had at least been attended by this much success, that the young
aspirant was enthusiastically welcomed by the military portion of the
population; but the descent upon Boulogne, planned at the time when the
body of the first Emperor was being brought from St. Helena to Paris,
was a failure from first to last. The little band of conspirators, about
fifty in number, with their tame eagle--a symbol of the Imperial
power--landed at the port, but found no adherents, and within a few
hours of their landing were under arrest. Napoleon himself underwent
trial before the Chamber of Peers, and after a short imprisonment, as
we have seen, in the Château, was sent to the castle of Ham-sur-Somme.
Three out of the four original gates of the ancient city still remain,
notably the Porte Gayole, the rooms in whose flanking towers were at one
time used as prisons. In the room above the gateway were formerly held
the meetings of the _Guyale_, a _réunion_ of ancient associations of
merchants--what would now be called a chamber of commerce--and from this
the gate-house was called Porte Gayole.
Of the cathedral at Boulogne it is difficult to speak with any
enthusiasm. It stands as a memorial of the Renaissance work of that
period which we should call early Victorian; but like so many modern
churches, it possesses an ancient crypt, part of which belongs to the
twelfth century, showing that the foundations at least are those of a
Gothic church, which was probably destroyed during the Revolution.
On the journey to Amiens the train passes through Abbeville on the
Somme, a place some sixty years ago sacred to geologists, who, led by
the distinguished Boucher de Perthes, Prestwick and Evans, extracted
from the river bed and neighbouring peat and undisturbed gravels, not
only remains of beaver, bear, &c., but also innumerable hand-fashioned
flints and stone hatchets, and made the valley of the Somme up to Amiens
and St. Acheul classic ground to the antiquary and an object of
pilgrimage to the student of pre-historic man.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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