Chambers's Edinburgh Journal, No. 308: New Series, Saturday, November 24, 1849Various
General
Chambers's Edinburgh Journal, No. 308: New Series, Saturday, November 24, 1849
Various
Periodicals
An early walk next morning showed me the situation of the inn in a
pleasant valley, where a river terminates in a fiord. The river, I was
told, contains abundance of fine fish, and I bethought me that for an
angler such an opportunity of sport, with so cleanly an inn to live in,
might be very attractive. Quist having contrived the night before to
get several forebud notices sent on by a private hand free of expense,
I started at eight o'clock, with some uncertainty as to the conclusion
of my day's journey. The country passed over to-day consisted of low
rocky hills, all smoothed, with spaces between, filled up to various
heights with detrital matter. This matter usually composes flats, and
the ground therefore joins the rocky hills almost as mountain lakes
join the sides of the basins containing them--a feature speaking
significantly of the operations of the sea upon the stuff left at the
conclusion of the glacial action. Contrary to my expectation, very
few boulders appeared upon the hills. Sometimes a rill cuts down the
alluvial flat, and then we see a series of cultivated fields on the
bisected level spaces, frontiered by steep pastoral banks, all in a
flush of wild-flowers. The rounded gray rocky hills; the alluvial
flats, sometimes cultivated, sometimes in moorland; low, gray, stone
enclosures; red wooden houses scattered at wide intervals; now and then
a whitened church, with a red wooden spire, topping a low height--such
were the predominant features of the landscape during this morning's
drive. The people are remarkably civil and inoffensive: not a man or
boy do I pass or meet who does not take off his hat. I feel this as
courtesy, not as servility, and am careful to return each greeting
duly, in order that so amiable a custom may not suffer by me. There
is one singular impediment in travelling: almost every few hundred
yards--though often at very much wider intervals--a gate crosses the
road, being part of the system of farm enclosures, and having a regard
to the exclusion of cattle from the corn-fields. Generally some cottage
child or group of children is ready to run and open the gate for the
approaching vehicle; and for this service a minute coin, such as the
third or sixth of a skilling, is regarded as a rich reward. Where no
such aid is at hand, the charge-taker of the horses has to descend and
throw up the bar. Another novel feature of the roads is the frequent
appearance by the wayside of little posts bearing small boards, which
contain an inscription--as 'Hede, 200 alnar,' 'Hogdal, 134 alnar,' &c.
The explanation is, that the roads in Sweden and Norway are kept up by
the bonder or peasants, each taking charge of some small section near
his farm. The boards show for what piece each is answerable, the space
being indicated in ells. A public officer makes periodical rounds, to
see that each person executes his portion in a satisfactory manner,
and to impose fines where the duty is neglected. This system partakes
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