Chambers's Journal of Popular Literature, Science, and Art, Fifth Series, No. 148, Vol. III, October 30, 1886Various
History
Chambers's Journal of Popular Literature, Science, and Art, Fifth Series, No. 148, Vol. III, October 30, 1886
Various
Periodicals
The next attempt of which we have record was a remarkable one, for
it was made by three brothers, the Messrs Parker of Liverpool, _and
without guides_. The attempt was made in 1860 from Zermatt, and these
daring climbers attacked the eastern face, looked upon at that time as
quite beyond the powers of any human being to climb. They succeeded
in ascending to a height of some twelve thousand feet, and were then
driven back by bad weather. In the same year, another attempt was made
from Breuil by Professor Tyndall and Mr Vaughan Hawkins, with the
guides J. J. Carrel and Bennen; but they did not make much advance upon
what had been done during the attempts of the Val Tournanche guides;
and it is doubtful if a greater height than thirteen thousand feet was
reached.
In 1861, the Messrs Parker tried again, but did not succeed in getting
much higher than they did in the previous year; while on the Italian
side, the two Carrels, J. A. and J. J., made another attempt, which was
unsuccessful.
Then began the attempts of Mr Whymper, and from that moment until
the last successful expedition, with two exceptions, his name was
associated with all the attempts that were made upon the mountain. The
two exceptions were those of Mr T. S. Kennedy and of Professor Tyndall
in 1862. The first was unique, as having been made in the winter—on
the 7th of January. Mr Kennedy seems to have thought that the ascent
might prove practicable in winter, if not in summer; but his experience
was a severe one. A fierce wind, bitter cold, and a superabundance
of snow, prevented his getting very far; and, like all the rest, he
returned completely discomfited. The attempt of Professor Tyndall on
the Italian side, in July of that year, was perhaps the nearest to
success of any that had yet been made. He had two celebrated Swiss
guides with him, Bennen and Walter; and he also took, but only as
porters, three Val Tournanche men, of whom J. A. Carrel was one. This
expedition was only stopped when within eight hundred feet of the top.
Professor Tyndall came back so deeply impressed with the difficulties
surrounding the ascent, that he made no effort to renew his attempt.
In fact, he does not appear to have gone on the mountain again till he
ascended it in 1868, three years after the first ascent had been made.
Professor Tyndall’s want of success appears in great measure to have
been due to the jealousy existing between the guides of the two rival
nationalities, Swiss and Italian.
The first attempt by Mr Whymper was made from Breuil on the 29th of
August 1861, the same day as the attempt by the two Carrels. Mr Whymper
was accompanied by an Oberland guide, who proved a somewhat inefficient
companion; and they failed to get higher than the ‘Chimney,’ twelve
thousand six hundred and fifty feet above the sea-level. He made other
five attempts in 1862, one in 1863, and two in 1865. In the ninth and
last, he was successful.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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