Chambers's Journal of Popular Literature, Science, and Art, No. 719: October 6, 1877Various
General
Chambers's Journal of Popular Literature, Science, and Art, No. 719: October 6, 1877
Various
Periodicals
Mr Arnold, in his _Summer Holiday in Scandinavia_, has done ample
justice to the great and varied natural charms of Norway. Unhappily
for some travellers at least, it cannot be approached without a longer
or shorter sea-voyage, the pleasure or discomfort of which depends
very much upon the weather. Our author in this respect was not very
fortunate, for the sun kept resolutely out of sight. The sky, the
dim haze-covered land, and the surrounding waves, were all one dull
uniform gray; but even with this drawback, he was struck by the rugged
grandeur and beauty of the sea-wall of Norway, one of the noblest in
the world. Frowning, it rises a rocky rampart of gray beetling crags,
fantastic buttresses, and cliffs of limestone, embosomed in masses of
delicate many-toned hues of verdure, as the silvery gray green of the
birch, the brighter shade of the hazel, or the more sombre colouring
of the pine, predominates in the foliage of the copse-wood, with which
every available nook and cranny is crowned. Jagged peaks and serried
promontories fashion themselves in the most picturesque fashion out
of the gray limestone crags, sheltering lonely sequestered bays of
wondrous beauty; while beyond rise long ridges of lofty hills, their
brown sides covered in great part with odoriferous pine-forests,
checkered with vivid green patches of corn-land and pasture; with here
and there a cluster of little quaint wooden red-tiled houses, lending
to the beautiful wild scenery the interest of human life and industry.
At Christiania Mr Arnold and his party landed amid a group of placid
onlookers; and having, chiefly by their own efforts conveyed their
luggage to the custom-house, found that dreaded ordeal to be in Norway
mere child's play. 'An old official,' says our author, 'with a flat
cap, looking remarkably like a Greenwich pensioner, patted some of the
luggage, and said in good but brief English: "Tourists?" "Yes," replied
our spokesman. The old official then bowed, intimating obligingly that
Norway was glad to see us, and waved his hand for the next lot.' A
month was the time that the party had to spend in Norway; and after
mature consideration, they decided that the best route for them would
be from 'Christiania by Lake Miosen to Giovik and the Fille Fjeld _viâ_
Fagernœs, and so to Bergen by Lœrdalsoren, returning by the southern
road and Lake Kröderen.' What they could not determine was, whether
to walk or ride or drive; but at last they decided that it was best
to do at Rome as the Romans do, and wisely fell back upon the native
carrioles.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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