It was waxing late after we had seen these schools. We had consumed a
great amount of the day in partaking of a most excellent Chinese
luncheon, where the only mistake I had made--at least the only one of
which I was conscious--was in not being instructed in the nature of the
entertainment. I had yielded to the solicitations of my host and had
partaken largely of the first two or three courses. Later on in the
luncheon I was divided between the desire to be polite and a fear that
the capacity of the human body might be exceeded. Our host was the
Director of Education, and my interpreter whispered to me that he had a
great knowledge of cooking and that "he loved a dry joke." His skill
as a Director of Education, especially of Western subjects, might be
doubted; but as a kindly host and an amusing companion he would have
few equals in our country. This aspect of the Chinese official too
often escapes the Western critic; whether efficient or inefficient,
they are always agreeable men. After luncheon he begged to be excused,
as he had a visit of ceremony to pay; it was the birthday of a dear
friend's mother. {287} His official robes were brought out, and
clothed in them he took his seat in a sedan chair and left us.
We were taken on, rather unwillingly I fancied, to see the Commercial
School. The hour of the classes was over, but still the school was
really instructive. What was so remarkable about it was the extreme
simplicity of the place where the boys lodged. The school is not
maintained by Government, but by the rich Silk Guild of Nanking. Many
members of this Silk Guild, I was assured, would only be able to read
and write enough to carry on their business. They are a rich and
powerful body, and this school is intended for their sons. The
dormitory was a slate-covered building without any ceiling, and the
beds were arranged like berths on board ship, one on the top of the
other, with narrow passages between them. In this way, of course, a
room was made to hold a perfectly surprising number of individuals. I
could not help remembering the Church Army Lodging-house at home. If
we arranged the beds as they were arranged in that room, though we
should double or treble the number of travellers we could house, we
should incur the wrath of the sanitary authority.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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