The strata on the Alabama River afforded a useful lesson on the
variability of lithological characters. Were it not for the fossils,
Lyell says, the Lower Cretaceous beds of loose gravel might be taken for
the newest Tertiary, the main body of the Chalk for Lias, and the soft
Tertiary limestone for the representative of the Chalk. It was
impossible to leave Mobile without seeing something of the Gulf of
Mexico; so they went in a steamer down the Alabama River to the seaside,
looked upon the muddy banks, with the shells[112] which live in them and
the quantities of drift-timber which bestrew them, and then went across
to one of the minor mouths of the Mississippi, and, passing up it,
landed at New Orleans.
This town, about 110 miles by water from the confluence of the main
channel of the Mississippi with the sea, afforded a convenient
opportunity for studying the character of the lower part of the delta of
the "Father of Waters." Such a region might be expected to supply facts
which would be helpful in the interpretation of many phenomena presented
by the coal measures. Accordingly, Lyell made one excursion to Lake
Pontchartrain, a great sheet of fresh water no great distance from both
New Orleans and the sea, and another down to the mouth of the
Mississippi. The road through the swamp to the former was constructed of
a strange material--viz. the white valves of a freshwater mollusc.[113]
These are obtained from a huge bank over a mile in length, and sometimes
about four yards in depth, at one end of the lake. How this had been
formed seemed doubtful. Possibly the shells had been piled up by the
waves during a storm; possibly there had been some slight change of
level. The lake itself is about fifteen feet below high-water mark, and
is about as many deep; but, as it receives an arm of the Mississippi,
silt is gradually raising the bottom. The sea sometimes, when impelled
by a strong south-east wind, makes its way into the lake. Among the
English coal measures--as, for instance, at Coalbrook Dale or in
Yorkshire--beds of marine shells are occasionally found intercalated
among or even associated with freshwater molluscs, without any
alteration in the general character of the beds in which they lie. How
this might occur is illustrated by Lake Pontchartrain in the swampy
alluvial delta. Here a very slight physical change might enable the sea
to take, for a time, possession of the land, and the denizens of its
water, like a band of pirates, to dispossess the usual inhabitants.
The other expedition also supplied not a few valuable facts relating to
the history of river deltas, which were afterwards supplemented as they
travelled northwards for some hundreds of miles up the river, following
its sinuous course through leagues of marshy plain, densely overgrown
with vegetation. In the seaward reaches, reed, and rush, and willow, but
above New Orleans cypresses and other timber trees, rise above the rank
herbage.
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