The minor channels, blocked with driftwood which formed natural rafts;
the sand-bars and mud-banks; the great curves of the river, the
"bayous"[114] and isolated pools; the natural banks built up by the
sediment arrested at flood-time by the herbage near the river brink; the
floating timber and the "snags"--all provided valuable illustrations of
the physical features of a great river delta, and supplied him with
material which afterwards was worked up into newer editions of the
"Principles" and the "Elements."
From New Orleans Lyell went by steamer to Natchez, halting on the way to
examine more closely certain localities of interest and to obtain
illustrations of how a coalfield might be formed. The bluffs of
Natchez--almost the first place where distinctly higher ground
approaches the river-side--afforded plenty of semi-fossil shells,
specifically identical with those still inhabiting the valley of the
Mississippi, but the loam in which they were embedded--a loam which
reminded him of the loess of the Rhine--also contains the remains of the
mastodon, and overlies a clay with bones of the megalonyx, horse, and
other quadrupeds, mostly extinct. Beneath this clay are sands and
gravel, the whole forming a platform which rises about 200 feet above
the low river plain, revealing an earlier chapter in the history of the
river. Similar bluffs occur at Vicksburg, but these disclosed Eocene
strata beneath the alluvial deposits, and thus invited a halt in order
to explore the neighbourhood. The next stage was to Memphis, nearly 400
miles. Lyell speaks highly of the accommodation generally afforded by
the river steamers, but found the inquisitiveness of his American
fellow-travellers rather a nuisance, and the spoiled children a still
greater one. The former drawback to pleasure has certainly abated during
the last half-century, but whether the latter has done the same may
perhaps be disputed. New Madrid, 170 miles above Memphis, called for a
longer halt, for the neighbouring district had suffered from a great
earthquake in the year 1811, when shocks were felt at intervals for
about three months, the ground was cracked, water mingled with sand was
spouted out, yawning fissures opened (in one case draining a lake),
portions of the river cliff were shaken down into the stream, and a
large district--about 2,000 square miles in area--was permanently
depressed. Some traces of the earthquake, in addition to the last-named,
could still be recognised at the time of Lyell's visit, though more than
thirty years had elapsed.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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