Then they journeyed over the pleasant uplands to Vevay, and so by the
shore of the Lake of Geneva and the plain of the Rhone valley to
Martigny, turning aside to visit the salt mines near Bex. They reached
Martigny a little more than seven weeks after the lake, formed in the
valley of the Dranse by the forward movement of the Giétroz Glacier, had
burst its icy barrier, and they saw everywhere the ruins left by the
rush of the flood. The road as they approached Martigny was even then,
in some places, under water; in others it was completely buried beneath
sand. The lower storey of the hotel had been filled with mud and débris,
which was still piled up to the courtyard. Lyell went up the valley of
the Dranse to the scene of the catastrophe, and wrote in his journal an
interesting description of both the effects of the flood and the
remnants of the ice-barrier. Before returning to Martigny he also walked
up to the Hospice on the Great St. Bernard, and then the whole party
crossed by the Simplon Pass into Italy, following the accustomed route
and visiting the usual sights till they arrived at Milan.
The next stage on their tour--and this must have been in those days a
little tedious--brought them to Venice. The Campanile Lyell does not
greatly admire, and of St. Mark's he says rather oddly, "The form is
very cheerful and gay"; but on the whole he is much impressed with the
buildings of Venice, and especially with the pictures. On their return
they went to Bologna, and then crossed the Apennines to Florence.
Everywhere little touches in the diary indicate a mind exceptionally
observant--such as notes on the first firefly, the fields of millet, the
festooned vines seen on the plain, or the peculiar sandy zone on the
northern slopes of the hills. He also mentions that shortly after
crossing the frontier of Tuscany they passed near Coviliajo, "a volcanic
fire" which proceeded from a neighbouring mountain.[8] This they
intended to visit on their return. But at Florence the diary ends
abruptly, for the note-book which contained the rest of it was
unfortunately lost.
We have given this summary of Lyell's journal in some detail, but even
thus it barely suffices to convey an adequate idea of the cultured
tastes, wide interests, and habits of close and accurate observation
disclosed by its pages. It shows, better perhaps than any other
documents, the mental development of the future author of the
"Principles of Geology." Few things, as he journeys, escape his notice;
he describes facts carefully and speculates but little. As he wanders
among the Alpine peaks, he makes no reference to convulsions of the
earth's crust; as he views the ruin wrought by the Dranse, he says
naught of deluges.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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