Chats on CostumeRhead, G. Woolliscroft (George Woolliscroft)
History
Chats on Costume
Rhead, G. Woolliscroft (George Woolliscroft)
Clothing and dress
During the reign of William the Conqueror, short boots reaching above
the ankle, with a plain band round the tops, prevailed. Robert, Duke
of Normandy, eldest son of the Conqueror, who died in 1134, was called
"Curta Ocrea," or Short Boots, either from his setting the fashion or
from retaining it when abandoned by the beaux of the day.
The usual footgear of the period, however, is the close shoe, made of
cloth, velvet, leather, or other material, and terminating in a point.
From this period for more than a century onward, shoes varied very
little, except in the character of their ornamentation.
During the reigns of Henry II. and Richard I., a kind of loose top-boot
appeared. These boots resembled loose socks or galoches, drawn over the
hose, sometimes reaching as high as the knee, and occasionally to the
middle of the thigh, but more often half way up the leg only. They were
worn in various forms by all classes, and by the common people during
a long period. They had no fastenings or lacings, but were allowed to
fall at will, according to the stiffness or otherwise of the material
of which they were made.
In the miniatures of the "Facta et Dicta Memorabilia" of Valerius
Maximus, begun by Simon de Hesdin for Charles V. of France in 1375,
and completed by Nicholas de Gonesse for Jean, Duc de Berry, in 1405,
a number of figures have boots, made apparently of soft leather
and coloured either red or white, reaching to the knee; in some
instances the tops turned down, with long, pointed toes. This series
of miniatures is extremely interesting as giving an insight into the
domestic life of the fourteenth century, some of the interiors being
especially so.
During the reign of the Plantagenets, footgear, like the rest of the
costume of that period, was exceedingly sumptuous. The shoes were
usually close-fitting, with pointed toes, and ornamented with the
richest variety of patterning. The tops were of various materials,
soft leather, silk, cloth, cloth-of-gold, &c. The soles were usually
of thicker leather, but occasionally of wood, and even of cork. Upon
the opening of the tomb of Henry VI. of Sicily, the dead monarch was
discovered wearing shoes of which the uppers were of cloth-of-gold
embroidered with pearls, and the soles of cork, covered with
cloth-of-gold.
The reign of Richard II. was the period of abnormally long pointed
toes, which occasionally reached the length of six inches and more,
and assumed various shapes, the toes being stuffed with tow or other
substance to keep them in shape.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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