Chats on CostumeRhead, G. Woolliscroft (George Woolliscroft)
History
Chats on Costume
Rhead, G. Woolliscroft (George Woolliscroft)
Clothing and dress
This fashion of long pointed toes lasted during the three succeeding
reigns. "Even boys wore doublets of silk, satin, and velvet; and almost
all, especially in the Courts of Princes, had points at the toes of
their shoes a quarter of an ell long and upwards, which they now called
_poulaines_." Paradin describes the men as "wearing shoes with a point
before, half a foot long: the richer and more eminent personages more
than a foot, and Princes _two feet long_, which was the most ridiculous
thing that ever was seen; and when men became tired of these pointed
shoes, they adopted others in their stead denominated duck-bills,
having a bill or beak before, of four or five fingers in length."
The sumptuary laws regulating these matters have been referred to in
the introduction to this work. The Act of 3 Edward IV. restricted the
length of toe to two inches.
[Illustration: FRENCH. FIFTEENTH CENTURY.
FRENCH. SEVENTEENTH CENTURY.]
Clogs and pattens were worn from the time of Richard II. onwards as a
protection to the soles of the shoes, and were variously shaped. Randal
Holme calls _pattanes_ "irons to be tied under the shoes to keep them
out of the dirt." In an anonymous work called the "Eulogium," cited
by Camden, it states: "Their shoes and pattens are snouted and piked,
more than a finger long, crooking upwards, which they call _crackowes_,
resembling devils' claws, and fastened to the knees with chains of gold
and silver."
[Illustration: CHILD'S SHOES, FRONT AND SIDE VIEW, GERMAN (SIXTEENTH
CENTURY).
MAN'S SHOE, GERMAN (SIXTEENTH CENTURY).]
This fashion of appending chains to the peaks of the shoes lasted
intermittently for a considerable time. In a work on "Ancient Costume,"
by Major Hamilton Smith, a portrait of James I. of Scotland is
mentioned, in which the peaks of the monarch's shoes are fastened by
chains of gold to his girdle.
There is a manuscript in the Royal collection in which the Duke of
Gloucester, afterwards Richard III., is depicted as wearing a clog.
This has been adopted by Abbey in his famous picture of "Gloucester
and the Lady Anne."
Clogs were of wood, thickened at the heel and ball of the foot for the
purpose of raising it from the ground. Afterwards it was further raised
by means of two pieces set at right angles to the foot, on precisely
the same principle as the Japanese shoes of to-day. An illustration is
given from the Cluny Museum (p. 282).
Another means of raising the foot was the "chopine," which was a kind
of stilt; it was, in fact, the sole, elongated to an extravagant
degree. Hamlet thus addresses the lady players: "What! my young lady
and mistress! By'r-lady, your ladyship is nearer heaven than when I saw
you last, by the altitude of a chopine!"
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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