"I am of Crispin's trade, a brave Shooemaker, He loved a Princess dear, and ne'r forsak't her.... This craft was never held in scorn, Sir Thomas Eyer did it adorn, A Shoemaker's son a Prince is born." _Roxburghe Ballads._ [29] "Health Culture," G. Jaeger, M.D. [30] A movement, headed by the Empress, has been instituted recently for the abolition of the practice of mutilating the feet of Chinese women, which was universal throughout all classes of society. In the cities, ladies were carried through the streets pick-a-back, and moved about their houses on their knees. In the fields the women worked on their knees, being unable to stand. [31] "Health Culture," G. Jaeger, M.D. INDEX Addison, scantiness of dress, 141 Angelico, Fra, painting by, at Florence, 101 Anglo-Saxon super-tunic, 76; embroidery, 76; Chronicle, treasures of King Malcolm of Scotland, 100 Barbers, introduction of in Rome, 239; charter granted by Henry VIII., 247 Barber-Surgeons, 247-249 Beard, formality of Assyrian and Greek, 237; dyeing and powdering, 238; ceremonies and customs relating to, 238; Peter Lombard's dislike of, 245; edict by Henry I. for suppression of, 245; various shapes of, 246; vow of Henry VIII. relating to, 246 Beaumont and Fletcher, quotation from, 140 Bloet, Robert, Bishop of Lincoln, mantle presented by to Henry I., 90 Boadicea, tunic of, 68 Bodice, rigidity of, 144 Boots, shoes, and other foot coverings, 281-301 ---- short, 288; top, 288, 297, 298; Wellington, 298 Buckles, 296 Buskins, 284-286 Byzantine women, dress of, 72 Calash, introduction of, 230 Cap, flat, of Tudor period, 218-220; fool's, 209 Carlyle, T., 18, 26, 110 Charlemagne, dress of, 68; letter to King John of Gascogny, 89; mantle of, 90 Charles I., costume of, 126 Chaucer, quotations from, 52, 46, 78, 82, 98, 118, 242, 275 Chopine, 292 Chlamys, 85 Cloak, Spanish, 102; Puritan, 102 Clothes, index as to character, 22; climatic influence on, 22; uses of, 20; their symbolism, 26 Coif-caps, 258 Collar, Gurth's, 181 Collars and cuffs, 181-201 Cotton MS. caricature of winged devil, 42 "Couleur Isabella," 188 Coverley, Sir Roger de, remarks on hooped petticoat, 164 Cravat, origin of, 182; general use of, 195; art of tying the, 195-201 Crestine or net-caul, 211 Crinoletta, 160; "disfigurans," 177; echo of earlier prototype, 178 Crinoline, rise and fall of, 159-178; invention of, 162 Crispin, St., 281 Cross gartering, 114, 286 Cut-purse, 78 Dickens, quotation from "Pickwick," 280 Doublet and hose, 111-132 Dowglas, monk of Glastonbury, extravagances of dress of reign of Edward III., 37 Dress: should be one of the decorative arts, 53; conditions of beautiful, 106; floral patternings of, 146; modes of, 1773, 148; fashionable, 1782, 149 Elizabeth, Queen, short cloak, 101 Embroidery, a conspicuous element in Anglo-Saxon dress, 76 Empire gown, 152