Fabrics: cloth of gold, 43; silk, 44; ciclatoun, cendal, taffetas, sarcenet, 46; patternings of, 48; satin, 46; velvet, 46; Sicilian brocades, 49-51 Farthingale, 162; great wheel, 164 Fashion, genuine woman of, 153 French Revolution, influence on dress, 150; disappearance of three-cornered hat, 227 Froissart, Harleian Library, caricature of pig walking upon stilts, 42 Garter, mantle of, 52, 94; vestments of, 94; jewel of, 95; embroiderings of, 94; as at present worn, 96 General survey, 19-57 Girdle, various kinds of, 77; of Charlemagne, 77; imperial girdle of Holy Roman Empire, 77; of Henry VI., 77; in brasses, 78 Gosson, Stephen, "Schoole of Abuse," 36 Gozzoli, Benozzo, frescoes at Pisa, 101 Greeks, costumes of modern, 78 Gresham, Sir Thomas, gift of silk stockings to Edward VI., 120 Hair, moustachios, and beard, 237-277 ---- length of, privilege of Kings and Princes of the Franks, 240; condemnation of by the priesthood, 240 Harold, King, banner under which he fought at Hastings, 52 Hat, chimney-pot, 25, 57, 205, 220, 222-224; development of, 222-224; centenary of modern, 222; Greek broad-brimmed, 210; cocked, 130; Kevenhuller, 132, 227; slouch, Stuart period, 226; panama, 232; bowler, 232 Hats, caps, and bonnets, 205-233 Headcoverings not a necessity, 205 Head-dresses, extravagances of, 260-271; horned, 36, 41, 213-215; heart-shaped, 215; steeple, 215 Hennin, 216 Hood, Roman hooded cloak, 208; variations of, 209 Hooped petticoat, 159-175; inconveniences of, 170; disappearance of, 170 Hose, tight-fitting, 114; parti-coloured, 115; Gallic, 120; silk, 120; Venetian, 120 Illuminated MSS., colouring of, 73 Jerkin, 117 Jewels, worn in hats, 224 Jonson, Ben, quotations from "Silent Woman," 38, 236, 268; "Every Man out of his Humour," 122 Kirtle or petticoat, the, 135-156 Kirtle "Romaunt of the Rose," 73-136; a development tunic, 135 La Tour Landry, Knight of, St. Bernard's admonition of his sister, 36; extravagance in dress, 41; horned head-dresses, 214; painted faces, 276 Lorenzo, Fiorenzo di, paintings by, 99, 100, 113 Love locks, 250 Lydgate, monk of Bury, satires, 41 Lyly's "Euphues," 1580, fable of wind and sun, 22 Macaronies, 260 Malay Peninsula, clothing of aborigines, 20 Mantle, the, 83-106; of Elijah, 83; St. Martin, 84; Raleigh, 84; Archdruid's, 88; coronation mantle of Holy Roman Empire, 88; Frankish, 89; colour of Charlemagne's, 90; Edward the Confessor's, 90; Norman period, 90; Queen Matilda's, 91; of the Order of the Garter, 94 Mary, Queen, description of portrait of, 138 Merry Monarch, beauties of the Court of, 141 Merveilleuses, 150 Moustachios, Charles I., third Empire, a reigning monarch, 272 Muffs, 104 Nazarite law, 240-244 Ondina or waved Jupons, advertisement in _Illustrated London News_, 1863, 175 Otaheite, festal dress, 166 Painted faces, 250-252