The author's thanks are particularly due to Mr. J. S. Sargent, R.A., for his kind permission to reproduce his portrait of Miss Ellen Terry. [Illustration: WILLIAM, DUKE OF JULIERS AND CLEVES. _By Aldegrever._] CONTENTS PAGE PREFACE 5 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 9 BIBLIOGRAPHY 15 CHAT I. A GENERAL SURVEY 17 II. THE TUNIC 59 III. THE MANTLE 81 IV. THE DOUBLET AND HOSE 109 V. THE KIRTLE OR PETTICOAT 133 VI. THE RISE AND FALL OF THE CRINOLINE 157 VII. COLLARS AND CUFFS 179 VIII. HATS, CAPS, AND BONNETS 203 IX. THE DRESSING OF THE HAIR, MOUSTACHIOS, AND BEARD 235 X. BOOTS, SHOES, AND OTHER COVERINGS FOR THE FEET 279 INDEX 302 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS PORTRAIT OF MISS ELLEN TERRY AS LADY MACBETH, _Frontispiece_ by J. S. SARGENT, R.A. HORNED HEAD-DRESS: BEATRICE, COUNTESS OF ARUNDEL, 1439 _Title-page_ PAGE DUKE OF JULIERS AND CLEVES (ALDEGREVER) 6 CHAT I.--A GENERAL SURVEY. Heading 19 The Comte d'Artois and Mademoiselle Clothilde 21 Charles Howard, Earl of Nottingham 23 Ludovicus Rex, by Thackeray 27 Travelling in a Horse-litter (from a Fourteenth Century MS.) 31 William III. 35 Queen Mary 39 Caricature: Pig Walking upon Stilts (Harleian MS.) 43 Caricature: Winged Devil (Cotton MS.) 43 Duchess of Ancaster (after Hudson) 47 Damask in Silk and Gold (Saracenic) 50 Venetian Fabric (Thirteenth Century) 51 London Promenade Dress, 1836 55 CHAT II.--THE TUNIC. Tunic, Petticoat, and Girdle (Jutland) 62 Hunefer and his Wife ("Book of the Dead," _c._ B.C. 1370) 63 A Priest Burning Incense ("Book of the Dead") 65 Plan of the Tunic 66 The Tunic (Hope's "Costume of the Ancients") 67