Chats on CostumeRhead, G. Woolliscroft (George Woolliscroft)
History
Chats on Costume
Rhead, G. Woolliscroft (George Woolliscroft)
Clothing and dress
"He took up also the mantle of Elijah that fell from him, and went
back, and stood by the bank of Jordan."
. . . . .
"And when the sons of the prophets which were to view at Jericho saw
him, they said, The spirit of Elijah doth rest on Elisha. And they came
to meet him, and bowed themselves to the ground before him."
St. Martin, Bishop of Tours, soldier of God, dividing his mantle with
the beggar at the gates of Amiens, is one of many similar stories in
the earlier history of the Christian Church. It is a variation of the
story of St. Christopher, and is intended as a lesson in charity. The
legend recounts that Christ appeared to him the following night covered
with the half of his mantle.
What schoolboy but does not remember the story of Raleigh's mantle,
which he cast into the mire in order that Queen Elizabeth's feet might
not be soiled? "The night had been rainy, and just where the young
gentleman stood, a small quantity of mud interrupted the Queen's
passage. As she hesitated to pass on, the gallant, throwing his cloak
from his shoulders, laid it on the miry spot, so as to ensure her
stepping over it dryshod. Elizabeth looked at the young man, who
accompanied this act of devoted courtesy with a profound reverence, and
a blush that overspread his whole countenance. The Queen was confused,
and blushed in her turn, nodded her head, hastily passed on, and
embarked in her barge without saying a word."[7]
The mantle is the cloak or outermost covering to the body, and was
originally worn either when the weather was unpropitious, or, as
occasion demanded.
The peplum of the Greeks was, in fact, a mantle, worn by both sexes,
and was occasionally very long, passing twice round the body, first
underneath the arms and then over the shoulder. In rainy or cold
weather it was pulled over the head, and also in times of mourning.
The peplum had no clasps or fastenings of any sort, but was kept in its
place by its own involutions, of which the combinations were almost
endless.
It will readily be understood that the natural foldings of drapery,
possessing in themselves so much variety and interest, when thrown
over a form so beautifully proportioned as is the human figure, gave
the utmost grace of line and form, and this fact makes it all the more
surprising that the natural foldings of drapery are not taken greater
advantage of in modern dress. The peplum was often diapered with
sprigs, spots, stars, or other patternings, and was occasionally richly
bordered.
The Greeks also occasionally wore a shorter and simpler cloak, called
chlamys, in lieu of the more ample peplum; such a short mantle is the
one which we see upon the shoulders of the Apollo Belvidere.
[Illustration: PLAN OF THE TOGA.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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