Chats on CostumeRhead, G. Woolliscroft (George Woolliscroft)
History
Chats on Costume
Rhead, G. Woolliscroft (George Woolliscroft)
Clothing and dress
King John of Gascogny having been counselled by his barons to yield
up to Charlemagne the four sons of Aymon, after much sorrow, summons
his secretary--"Come forth, syre Peter, and write a letter from me to
the Kinge Charlemagne, as I shall telle you: It is that I sende hym
salutacyon wyth goode love, and yf he wyll leve me my londe in peas, I
promyse hym that afore ten dayes ben paste, I shall delyver unto hym
the foure sones of Aymon, and he shall fynde theym in the playne of
Valcolours clothed with scarlette furred wyth ermynes, and ridynge upon
mewles, berynge in theyr handes flowres and roses for a token, bycause
that men shall better knowe them."
Charlemagne calls then his chamberlain--"Make a lettre to Kyng Yon of
Gascoyne in my behalve. Wryte that I sende hym salutacyon and goode
love, and that yf he dooth for me as he sayth, I shall encrease his
royame wyth fourtene goode castelles, and therof I gyve hym for surete
our lorde and saynte Denys of Fraunce, and that I sende hym four
mauntelles of scarlette furred wyth ermynes, for to clothe wythall the
traytoures, when they shall goo to the playne of Valcoloures, and there
they shall be hanged, yf God wyll."[8]
The Venetian mantle which Charlemagne wore was, according to an early
French writer quoted by Strutt, of a grey or blue colour. It was
quadrangular in its form, and so doubled that when placed upon the
shoulders it hung down as low as the feet before and behind, but on the
sides it scarcely reached to the knees.
In the Anglo-Saxon dress of the earlier period, the mantle is a simple
square with a border on the outer side, the two upper corners being
gathered together at the shoulders and fastened with brooches connected
by a chain. It is an instance of a very decorative effect being
produced by simple means.
The coronation mantle of Edward the Confessor was richly embroidered by
his Queen, Editha.
William of Malmesbury mentions a mantle presented to Henry I. by Robert
Bloet, Bishop of Lincoln, which was lined with black sables with white
spots, and cost £100, a large sum in those days.
The mantle, during the Norman period, underwent little change. It was
fastened, either upon one of the shoulders, generally the right, or in
front, by means of fibulæ or pins of an ornamental character. In the
earliest sculptured effigies of English Sovereigns which we possess,
those of Henry I. and his Queen Matilda at the west door of Rochester
Cathedral, the King is represented in a long dalmatic, with a loose
mantle thrown over his left arm. The Queen has a more formal mantle,
resting upon either shoulder, the system of fastening of which is
hidden by the two long plaits of hair which fall down on either side,
but which was probably some kind of ornamental strap. The ordinary
mantles of this period were often provided with a "capa" or cowl, which
was drawn over the head and frequently used in lieu of a hat.
[Illustration: STATUE OF QUEEN MATILDA AT ROCHESTER.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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