Chats on CostumeRhead, G. Woolliscroft (George Woolliscroft)
History
Chats on Costume
Rhead, G. Woolliscroft (George Woolliscroft)
Clothing and dress
"They were stoned, hewn asunder, tempted, fell, and were slain upon the
edge of the sword; some wandered to and fro in sheep's pilches, in
goats' pilches, forsaken, oppressed, afflicted."
[Illustration: PORTION OF THE PICTURE OF THE MIRACLE OF ST. BERNARD.
_By Fiorenzo di Lorenzo, Pinacoteca, Perugia._]
In the inventory above referred to are mentioned, "gounes de noier
damask, furrez de sides de foynes et marterons." The cost of these furs
is also given--"iii pares de foyns, chascun cont' c. bestes, pris le
pec' x_d._ xii_li._ x_s._," the marteron being more costly.
The foyne appears to have been the same as the polecat or fitchet.
The pylce was in common use during the Anglo-Saxon period, and worn by
all classes. In Michel's "Chroniques Anglo-Normandes," _c._ 1185, is
described a meeting on a little bridge near Westminster between Tosti,
Earl of Huntingdon, and Siward, Earl of Northumberland. "The said Earl
approached so near to Siward on the bridge that he dirtied his pelisse
(_pelles_) with his miry feet; for it was then customary for noblemen
to use skins without cloth." This evidently referring to a long mantle
or cloak.
The Anglo-Saxon Chronicle mentions the great gifts and many treasures
of skins decked with purple, pelisses of marten skin, weasel skin, and
ermine skin, which King Malcolm of Scotland and his sister Margaret
gave to the Conqueror in 1074.
During the general change which came about in costume in the reign of
Richard II. a shorter mantle or cloak began to be worn, which continued
at intervals and under various forms until the universal adoption of
coats at the close of the reign of Charles II.
In the tempera painting of the miracle of St. Bernard by Fiorenzo
di Lorenzo in the Pinacoteca at Perugia, a young man is wearing a
short cloak or mantle, hanging in very formal folds from the shoulder
and reaching a little below the middle. The mantle is buttoned upon
the right shoulder, thus repeating the principle of the Roman toga,
which leaves the right arm free. A similar short cloak is figured in
a copy of Froissart's Chronicles in the Harleian MSS. in the British
Museum. There was a reason for the mantle being fastened upon the right
shoulder; it was that the right arm is the sword-arm. This, however,
does not apply to the toga, which is the last garment that a man would
fight in. Two other figures in the picture above mentioned are habited
in long cloaks reaching to the feet, with full sleeves; the cloak of
the dark figure lined and bordered with miniver, and the other of a
different fur.
These long robes with ample sleeves constantly occur in Benozzo
Gozzoli's frescoes in the Campo Santo at Pisa, either flowing loosely
or confined by a girdle, and generally lined and bordered with miniver,
which appears to be a favourite enrichment with Benozzo. These garments
are worn usually by more elderly persons.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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