Chats on CostumeRhead, G. Woolliscroft (George Woolliscroft)
History
Chats on Costume
Rhead, G. Woolliscroft (George Woolliscroft)
Clothing and dress
First, then, for decency. That is sufficiently clearly established if
we may accept the Mosaic account of the world's juvenescence: "And
the eyes of both of them were opened, and they knew that they were
naked; and they sewed fig leaves together, and made themselves aprons";
"Unto Adam also and to his wife did the Lord God make coats of skins
and clothed them."[1] This habit of observance of the decencies of
life appears to be common to all nations. No people or tribe, however
primitive the civilisation, but makes some sort of provision in this
respect. The Veddas of Ceylon make girdles of leaves, which gives
them a strangely fantastic appearance. We learn from the accounts of
travellers in Central Africa that "clothing, though extremely simple,
consisting of a little grass-cloth, ornaments of feathers, fur, shells,
glass and metal beads, are worn, and the skin is decorated by stripes
of paint or an extensive series of cicatrices." Among the aborigines
of the Malay Peninsula (Sakais) "the men wear a strip of bark-cloth
twisted round the waist and drawn between the legs. The women sometimes
wear small cotton-cloth petticoats (sarongs) purchased from the
Malays, and the men occasionally adopt Chinese trousers; but in their
native forests, however, none of these luxuries are indulged in."
[Illustration: THE COMTE D'ARTOIS AND MADEMOISELLE CLOTHILDE.]
Secondly, for comfort and protection. The climatic influence on dress
is, and must necessarily be, considerable. This is well illustrated by
the well-known fable of "The Wind and the Sun." The more boisterously
the wind blows, the more closely the man enwraps himself with his
cloak; the more fiercely the sun shines, the more the man divests
himself of raiment;[2] but between the skins of the Laplander,
fashioned by the help of a thorn or a fishbone for a needle, and the
sinews of the animal for thread, and the light gossamer clothing of
the countries of the East there is a vast range, the extent of which,
indeed, is almost boundless. Climate not only determines the amount or
degree of warmth or otherwise, but also, as in architecture, influences
its character both as to form and colour. Moreover, clothes are an
index to the character or temper of an individual or nation. "What
meaning lies in Colour! If the Cut betoken intellect and talent, so
does the Colour betoken temper and heart."[3]
[Illustration: CHARLES HOWARD, EARL OF NOTTINGHAM.
_Engraved by Thomas Cockson._]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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