Chats on CostumeRhead, G. Woolliscroft (George Woolliscroft)
History
Chats on Costume
Rhead, G. Woolliscroft (George Woolliscroft)
Clothing and dress
As in a mighty river we may trace back its course to the little rill
or rivulet which trickles from the mountain side, so we may often
trace the origin of great events to very small beginnings. How might
the face of both French and English history have been changed but for
Peter Lombard's dislike of a beard! Louis VII. imagined it a matter
of conscience to give an example of submission to the command of
the bishops on the subject of long hair, and to atone for his many
cruelties by being shaved in public. He reckoned, however, without
his--wife, Eleanor of Aquitaine, a jocose madcap, who rallied him upon
his short hair and shaven chin. "I thought I had married a prince, but
find I have wedded nothing but a monk." The breach occasioned by a bare
face was widened, and the marriage dissolved. Six weeks afterwards
Eleanor was again a wife--Henry, Duke of Normandy, who afterwards
reigned as Henry II. of England, being the husband, who obtained
with her fair Aquitaine with its three provinces. Hence arose those
wars which ravaged France for near three centuries, in which upwards
of three millions of Frenchmen perished on the fields of Cressy,
Agincourt, and Poitiers, and on many a lesser field.
Henry I. issued an edict for the suppression of long hair, and as a
natural consequence long hair immediately became the rage. This edict,
however, was the result of a visit to Normandy, and the preaching of
a prelate named Serlo, whose eloquence was such that the monarch and
his courtiers were moved to tears. The astute priest, perceiving the
impression he had created, immediately whipped a pair of scissors from
his sleeve and cropped the whole congregation!
The patriarchal beard and long hair of Edward III., as exhibited in
his effigy at Westminster, is in strict conformity with the general
character of this serious minded monarch, strongly contrasting with the
character of his successor, Richard of Bordeaux, who was the greatest
fop of the day.
During the century which followed the reign of Edward III. beards were
worn of every imaginable cut. There was the fantail beard, with its
wadded nightcap for protection during sleep, of the stiffening which
was applied. There was, as later, the cathedral beard, the spade beard,
the stiletto beard, and there was an extraordinary curled tuft which
resembled a corkscrew. There was apparently as much variety of colour
as of form--
"I will discharge it in either your straw-colour beard, your orange
tawny beard, your purple-in-grain beard, or your French-crown-colour
beard, your perfect yellow" ("A Midsummer Night's Dream," Act I. sc. 2).
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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