Chats on CostumeRhead, G. Woolliscroft (George Woolliscroft)
History
Chats on Costume
Rhead, G. Woolliscroft (George Woolliscroft)
Clothing and dress
Although Kings have often vainly endeavoured to impose their will upon
the people in the matter of apparel it has often happened that monarchs
have set the prevailing fashion of the period. This is especially
noticeable in the Cavaliers of Charles I., numbers of whom adopted the
short, pointed beard and moustachios and long hair of their master, in
striking contrast to the close cropped and shaven round heads of the
Cromwellians. It was so with the Bonapartists of the Third Empire, when
the "imperial" became the vogue.
[Illustration: A REIGNING MONARCH.]
At a still more recent period, the illustrious personage who is figured
here, and who, be it known, appears here _strictly incognito_ (we would
fain escape the dire consequences of _lèse-majesté_), has imposed his
imperious will, not only upon his own countrymen, but upon the world at
large, in the matter of the turned up moustachio.
"When you come to be trimed, they will aske you whether you will be cut
to looke terrible to your enimie, or amiable to your freend, grime and
sterne in countenance, or pleasant and demure,--how their mowchatowes
must be preserved and laid out, from one cheke to another, yea, almost
from one eare to another, and turned up like two hornes towards the
forehead" (Stubbes, "Anatomy of Abuses," 1583).
[Illustration: PHILIP IV. OF SPAIN.]
The angle at which it is pointed provides an index as to character,
and of the degree of pugnacity of the wearer. At an angle of, say, 45
degrees forward we may expect to see its owner enter a crowded omnibus
with the point of his umbrella held at the same angle, or as a soldier
makes ready to present arms.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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