Chats on CostumeRhead, G. Woolliscroft (George Woolliscroft)
History
Chats on Costume
Rhead, G. Woolliscroft (George Woolliscroft)
Clothing and dress
In the dressing of the hair, as in costume generally, the lowest depth
of the commonplace has been reached during the nineteenth century. It
is, however, extremely dangerous to indulge in any kind of sweeping
generalities with respect to our own epoch; we are either, from long
habit and custom, prejudiced in favour of a particular _régime_, or
we are afflicted with that contempt which is born of a too great
familiarity. The chignon, in its many developments, is within the
memory of most of us; the odious Piccadilly fringe still endures with
those persons who are either slaves to habit or who find that the
curling and frizzing of the hair of the forehead destroys its capacity
for growth. Dundreary and mutton-chop whiskers are even now to be found
in out-of-the-way country places. Goldsmith, in one of his delightful
essays, tells a story of a traveller who, on his way to Italy, found
himself in a country where the inhabitants had each a large excrescence
depending from the chin--a deformity which, as it was endemic and
the people little used to strangers, it had been the custom, time
immemorial, to look upon as the greatest beauty. Ladies grew toasts
from the size of their chins, and no men were beaux whose faces were
not broadest at the bottom. It was Sunday; a country church was at
hand, and our traveller was willing to perform the duties of the day.
Upon his first appearance at the church door the eyes of all were fixed
upon the stranger; but what was their amazement when they found that he
actually wanted that emblem of beauty, a pursed chin! Stifled bursts
of laughter, winks, and whispers circulated from visage to visage; the
prismatic figure of the stranger's face was a fund of infinite gaiety.
Our traveller could no longer patiently continue an object of deformity
to point at. "Good folks," said he, "I perceive that I am a very
ridiculous figure here, but I assure you I am reckoned no way deformed
at home."
Lord Dundreary would have been impossible in any other epoch than
the Victorian, although the Dundreary whisker is but a glorified
development of earlier forms--
"A marchaunt was ther with a forked berd,
In motteleye high on horse he sat."
_Canterbury Tales._
Dundreary, with his striped peg-tops, his eyeglass, and his drawl,
exactly fitted his environment. His whiskers represent the very
antithesis of the "Piccadilly fringe," also happily gone, or relegated
to the coster fraternity, together with the bell-bottomed trouser with
which it is in singular affinity.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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