Chats on Old Lace and NeedleworkLowes, Emily Leigh
History
Chats on Old Lace and Needlework
Lowes, Emily Leigh
Lace and lace making; Needlework
Most of the old Devonshire laces bear distinct likeness to the fine
Flemish lace, only the clumsiness of the design or the coarse
workmanship differentiating them. It has, however, one special feature
which gave it the name "Trolly lace," as, unlike the perfectly flat lace
of Flanders, it has a coarse thread or "trolly" outlining its patterns,
and being made of English thread, it was coarse and not very durable.
_Honiton_
has always easily ranked first amongst our British laces, although by
many not considered equal to fine Bucks. Like the Midland lace, it has
been always made with Flanders thread, and therefore has maintained its
popularity because of its _wear_ and its _colour_. The early Honiton
workers copied "Brussels" lace, but because of their inability to
produce an artistic design it has never been anything but a _poor_ copy.
Even when the Brussels influence was most direct the flowers and sprays
were placed inartistically, while the scroll copies of the early Flemish
schools can only be termed the imitative handiwork of a child.
The most prized specimens of old Honiton are those with hand-made
ground, made of Flanders flax. Very little of this real ground Honiton
lace is left. Queen Victoria did much to make Honiton lace _the_ lace of
the land; but although a regular trade has been established, and much
good work accomplished, Honiton of the past will never be regarded on
the same plane as the laces of Venice, France, and Brussels. Even in its
best variety it lacks the exquisite filmy touch of Brussels, the dainty
grace of Alencon, and the magnificence of Point de France and Venetian
Point. The Honiton laces made since the introduction of machine-made net
is especially poor. Flower sprigs and sprays are made separately on the
pillow, and afterwards applied to the machine-made ground. These are, as
a rule, flowers and foliage treated naturalistically, and are heavy and
close in design. These are often very sparingly applied over a wide
expanse of net in order to make as much lace with as little trouble as
possible. This is very different to the work of the old Honiton
lace-worker, who made every inch of it herself--first the sprays and
scrolls, then worked the ground round it, and received, it is said, from
the middleman (who purchased it for the town market) as many shillings
as would cover the lace offered for sale.
We are glad to say, however, that very praiseworthy efforts are being
made to introduce better methods and more artistic designs in the many
lace schools which are being formed in various parts of Devon. Mrs.
Fowler, of Honiton, one of the oldest lace-makers in this centre, making
exquisite lace, the technique leaving nothing to be desired, and also
showing praiseworthy effort in shaking off the trammels of the
traditional designs.
[Illustration: MODERN HONITON, MADE BY MRS. FOWLER.]
XII
SCOTCH AND IRISH LACES
XII
SCOTCH AND IRISH LACES
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