The river rushes proudly along towards its final home in the ocean, but
narrows before it reaches its actual mouth, the water becoming yellow,
as does that of the Nile at the time of its rising. Even without glasses
I could quite clearly make out several poor-looking villages, the houses
with their dull red roofs occupied no doubt by fishermen and their
families. Oh, how different were the surroundings of these water-highways
of China to those of the Seine, the Rhone, and of the charming Gironde!
How much I preferred even the Nile, which I had but recently left, to
this so-called Pearl of the East, for in spite of the ugly black mud-huts
of the fellaheen, there is something beautiful about the river-side
scenery. I like the graceful date-tree far better than the bamboo with its
self-conscious uprightness, and I considerably prefer the slim and supple
Egyptian women to the clumsy, heavy-limbed female peasants of China, such
as I saw on the banks of the Shu-Kiang, dragging heavy loads behind them
as they strode along in a manner which made me doubtful as to their sex,
especially as their faces were hidden by the great hats they wore. A few
more turns of the paddle-wheels of our steamer, and it stopped opposite
Canton. In a moment a virago, such as those I had been looking at with
anything but admiration, was on the deck, and seizing me in her strong
arms as if I were a delicate baby, she quickly deposited me at the bottom
of her own boat, roaring with laughter over my embarrassment. I had no
longer any doubt as to her sex, as with a few vigorous strokes of her oars
she ran her boat ashore, and with the same maternal care as she had shown
before she landed me upon the wharf of the little island of Hainan where I
was expected.
There is no particular historic interest attached to Canton except that it
was the very first Chinese town to enter into relations with foreigners.
We know that this opening of intercourse took place in the year 618
A.D., but whence the foreigners came is not so certain. Possibly some of
them were from Ceylon, and undoubtedly others were from the continent of
Africa, as proved by the fact that elephants' tusks, the horns of the
rhinoceros, coral, pearls, redwood, and medicines were brought into the
city by the strangers, who received metals in exchange--that is to say,
copper, tin, and gold, and silk--especially silk--for it was manufactured
in the Celestial Empire twenty-seven centuries before the Christian era.
It was Lui-Tseu, the wife of the great Emperor Kwang-Ti, or the Yellow
ruler, who taught the people the art of rearing the silk-worm and spinning
the material it produced. The industry of silk-weaving has brought such
wealth to China that Lui-Tseu has been raised to the rank of a beneficent
genius, and is honoured under the name of the "Spirit of the mulberry-tree
and the silk-worm."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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