When I was at Macao, I saw some of the so-called _baracouns_, where the
emigrants used to be shut up whilst awaiting their embarcation. These
_baracouns_ are the disused vaults of old convents, damp cellars of vast
extent, which were closed with strong bars when in use as pens for human
cattle. I am thankful to say these barracks are empty now, and are no
longer hot-beds of disease, for the European powers have interfered to put
a stop to the infamous traffic. It is a great gratification to me to know,
on the authority of the Quai d'Orsay officials, that an indignant article
on the subject, which I contributed to the _Revue des Deux Mondes_, had
something to do with this most desirable step.
Emigration still goes on, on a very large scale, but it is conducted in a
less barbarous manner. No Chinese can now be made to embark against his
will, and his signature to a contract no longer compels him to leave his
native land if he has any means of support. As time goes on, it is to be
hoped that something like true liberty will really be the heritage of the
Chinese people, and already, where European ideas are gaining ground,
there are glimmerings of the dawn of a better state of things.
In China, as elsewhere, the glory of the Portuguese colonies is departed,
and the settlement at Macao is no exception to the rule. For many
years the name of that port was synonymous with decay and degradation.
The native population was more debased; the foreign traders were more
grasping, more greedy of gain, and more reckless of the means employed to
secure it than anywhere else, and one tri-colour flag, floating above a
hospital for invalid sailors, was the only note of true civilization to
redeem a deplorable state of things. The Sisters of Charity, who had come
all the way from France to soothe the sufferings of European mariners in
a strange land, taught the people of Macao that there was another love
than that of the piastre, another intoxication than that produced by the
fumes of opium: the love of helping others, the intoxication of zeal for
humanity. The much-abused and hated Macao is now the seat of a bishop
and the head-quarters of French missionary effort in China, whilst the
export trade has passed from the hands of the Portuguese into that of the
British, a truly beneficent change for all concerned.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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