Ningpo (Peaceful Wave) in friendly Buddhist Chekiang province, could
be called the Azalea City, and is one of the most delightful and
picturesque cities of China. It is the second oldest in its relations
with Europe, the Portuguese having founded a trading settlement here
in 1522. The city is moated, and the walls are broken with six gates.
Old Krupp cannons lie about on the parapet. The best wood carvers,
masons, and varnish makers of the kingdom work here, and their services
are sought for all over China. Its artists also are famous. Ningpo
lies twelve miles from the sea at the head of the Tatsieh River.
Three streams branch out into the hills, which lie spread around in
a most picturesque panorama, including valleys, canals and lakes. It
is a great fishing center, and its sailors are venturesome. The fast
river slipper boats of Ningpo are noted far and wide. The inhabitants
do not disdain the use of such a modern thing as ice, as the many
straw-covered, peaked ice houses show. Much tea and silk are produced.
Excellent stone carving is done, as witness that gem of architecture,
the Fukien men’s Guild Hall, with its carved dragon-entwined columns,
comical stone lions, and splendid, up-curving tiled roofs. The screens
and bronze urns at the many temples are also a delight in this center
of culture, the new rights of women, engineering and commerce. There
are successfully run native cotton mills, and the district produces
fine matting, rice, oils, varnish, sepia, bamboo, lumber, tea, game,
flowers, rape, barley, tallow trees, etc. There is a curious street
covered with pailoo arches to widows who would not remarry, to
scholars, children, etc. There is a foreign quarter with its splendid
bund, race course, house boats, clubs, churches, hill bungalows, etc.
No Chinese city affords more delightful excursions to the hills,
waterfalls, rapids like the Wenchow, and the wonderful Buddhist
monasteries like the noted Tien Dong and the Shih To. The trips to the
Ta Lang and Snowy Valleys are exceedingly beautiful. Outside the city
the temple to the sailor’s patron goddess, Ma Tsu Pu, at the east gate,
is particularly fine in lines, proportion, dignity and rich detail. It
was erected in 1680 by sailors of Fukien, the neighboring province.
These precious old temples are the last precious gems of a great age
in art. The new times in learning, religion, politics and commerce
are bringing in an ugly architecture. Ningpo is strongly influenced
in Buddhism by the nearness of Phu Tho Island of the Chusan group.
There is a quaint pontoon bridge over one of the streams. It has shops
upon it, and is the center of a fair. The women of Ningpo are known
for their fine needlework, and the old schools were celebrated for
their men of letters among the literati officials. The old Tien Fung
pentagonal pagoda is perhaps the oldest in China, dating back 1,200
years. Its gold and white tiles have fallen, and the brick and mortar
work of the seven stories is exposed.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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