This wonderful walled capital of Mongol, Ming and Manchu dynasties, is
not so old as the Great Wall of China, for it has been rebuilt several
times, the imperial portion being about 1,000 years older than the
inferior Chinese section to the south. It was as though the Chinese
traders camped before the southern Chien Men gate to supply the Manchu
court, and the Emperor Kia Tsing rose up and said: “Let us now take
thought, and throw a wide wall around our purveyors’ bazaars also.”
There is only one good thing about absolutism; i. e., to say is to do,
and it was done. Peking has had many rivals as the capital of China:
Nanking, the southern capital of the Mings, in particular; Hangchow,
of the Sungs; and Canton, Wuchang, Chingtu and Shanghai have all put
in their claims and maintained their flag in the breeze for a regal
season. Geographically and strategically, Chingtu would be the proper
capital of a united nation, and Wuchang would be almost as central and
afford better trading facilities, a London of China, but it would not
be so strong a strategic center. From a Chinese republican point of
view, Canton, Nanking and Shanghai are foremost in their claims. Peking
is weak because it is always within striking distance of Russia’s and
Japan’s mighty armies. Almost alone of the world’s capitals, it is not
at the water’s edge.
There are temples to nearly everything in Peking, a “Brooklyn of
Churches”, but most of the altars this time are heathen: temples
to Buddhas, sleeping in Nirvana, recumbent in Cingalese style; a
splendid Lama Temple with wonderful carvings in wood and stone; God
of War; Confucian; Taoist; Catholic Cathedral; Evangelical of every
denomination of the three Protestant nations; Mohammedan mosques; God
of Literature; God of Fox; Russian Greek Church; Portuguese Church;
shrines over Buddha’s skin, teeth and a score of other things;
Ancestral temples; Altars of the Sun, Moon, and Gods of Grain and Rain;
temples to Buddha’s mother, and Gods of Success, and “World Peace”
(not the recent invention of an armed peace!); Gods of Title Deeds,
Dragons, Wind and Water, the North Star; Gods of Dead Elephants and
Strong Tigers, etc. When the jolly men of Canton and another southern
city heard of all this, glorious humorists that they are, they said
they could “go it one better”. They erected with a rush a “Temple to
Ten Thousand Gods”, all of whom look alike, even the images named for
Marco Polo and “Chinese” Gordon. Chided with all this, a humorous
Cantonese retorted: “Well, haven’t you Occidentals an Eden Musée and
Madame Tussaud’s wax works; don’t take our idols as seriously as you do
the Indian ones.” There are superbly carved marble dagobas in the Lama
and Pi-Un-Se Temples. The Peking Lama is second in authority in the
Buddhist world, and since General Chao Ehr Feng drove the Dalai Lama
out of Tibet into India, the Peking Lama has now probably most power
in the Buddhist world. The Pali Chuan pagoda outside the west wall is
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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