sixth book of _The Iliad_ as obtaining in the home of Priam, King of
Troy, B. C. 2500. At New-year time, in Fukien province, all the family
join hands around a brazier which is smoking on a table, to signify the
unity of the family around a common hearth.
The Chinese make a stew of chicken, ginger, lettuce and cucumbers, or
vegetable marrow, and it is very good. Beans are soaked in water and
allowed to sprout before being pickled, or boiled in sugar. Salutes
at feasts are sometimes made in the German fashion by raising the
wine (samshu) cup to the eyes before drinking. The Chinese mix rice,
nuts, flour, fruit and seed in their candies, and their cakes are
highly colored and made very sweet. Where the Germans use vinegar and
salt as a preservative, the Chinese use sugar, and the results, while
surprising, are often delightful. Partly as revealing the sumptuous
table which it is now possible to set at Hongkong or Shanghai, or
Tientsin, and partly to show to what gastronomic heights the treaty
port Chinese rise, I quote the menu of the Wah On Kwong Association, or
Guild, served at one of the Hongkong hotels by Chinese stewards:
Queen olives Caviare on toast
Bird’s Nest soup Chicken soup Fungus soup
Garoupa, shrimp sauce Boiled shark steak
Fillet of beef (Champignon sauce)
Chicken compote Stewed sharks’ fins
Pigeon gelatine Pâté de foie gras en Aspic
Beche de Mer Fried frogs’ legs
Roast saddle of Queensland mutton with jelly
Roast ribs of sirloin of Queensland beef
Roast Kwangtung turkey Boiled fowl
Singapore pine apple Hankau ham Potatoes
Peas Vegetable marrow Salad
Asparagus, olive oil sauce
Victoria pudding Chartreuse jelly
Cakes Mango ice cream
Preserved ginger Small oranges Chinese nuts
Coffee European wines
Lucien Rozet Cliquot Heidsieck Chateau Larose
Medoc Manzanilla Marsala
The iron pans that come from Shansi province are made as thin as
possible so as to economize fuel; indeed, as light fuel as grass and
stalks is used. The kitchen god is Chang Kung, and he was given this
office because “nine generations peacefully inhabited the same compound
when he lived on earth.” As pigs, ducks and geese are driven long
distances to market, little straw sandals are woven for their feet.
This one sometimes sees in Southern France when the frugal peasant is
competing with local railway rates!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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