_Chinese Mettle_ [Illustration: A Temple of Healing.] CHINESE METTLE _Written and Illustrated by E. G. KEMP, F.R.S.G.S._ _Author of “The Face of China,” “The Face of Manchuria, Korea and Russian Turkestan,” “Wanderings in Chinese Turkestan,” “Reminiscences of a Sister” illustrated_.... “Travaile, in the younger Sort is a Part of Education; in the Elder, a Part of Experience.... When a Travailer returneth home, let him not leave the countries, where he hath travailed, altogether behind him.... Let it appeare that he doth not change his country manners for those of Forraigne Parts; But onely pricke in some Flowers of that he hath Learned abroad, into the Customs of his own Country.”—BACON’S _Essays_. _Hodder and Stoughton Ltd._ _Toronto_ _London_ _New York_ _St Paul’s House Warwick Square E.C.4_ _Printed in 1921_ DEDICATED TO MY CHINESE FRIENDS _Prologue_ Books of a descriptive nature, especially on a foreign country, are most difficult to write. Under ordinary circumstances, writers of such books, due to the differences of historical setting and social background, may find it hard to free themselves from prejudice. When the visit is confined to a section of the country, their views are liable to be provincial. On the other hand, hasty travelling, however large an area they may cover, makes their impressions superficial. It is well said that modern travellers see nothing but the interior of trains and hotels. This is gradually becoming true along the eastern coast of China. To-day one who confines his visit to Shanghai or Tientsin can not be said to have seen China, for it is not there that one sees the real Chinese life. Civilization means more than mechanical improvements. Herein lies the value of Miss Kemp’s book. She has wisely neglected the “show window” by putting seaports at the end. By acquainting the public with the wealth and beauty of the interior—places seldom traversed by sojourners,—she reveals to the readers the vitality and potential energy, both natural and cultural, of a great nation. Throughout the book the authoress combines the sincerity of description with the picturesqueness of details. Equally instructive is the authoress’ description of Chinese society and some of the prominent Chinese men and women. Great changes are going on in China. Nothing could afford more interest and knowledge to the friends of China than to witness the shifting scenes of the young Republic. The general tendency is undoubtedly towards stability and progress, evolving order out of derangement resulting from so immense a change as absolute monarchy to a modern democracy. The authoress has well illustrated by facts the advance which China has made in education, industry, commerce, etc.