France has now entered the lists, and there are some two thousand
students in France, most of whom are studying textile manufactures. They
have been sent over by the Government, the cost being defrayed by the
French remission of the remainder of the Boxer indemnity, and half the
cost of the journey is paid by France.
In order to accommodate so many students, the French have had to make
special provision, and I met a party of students who originally came to
study in England, but were obliged to go to France because they could
find no room in English colleges. This is a most deplorable state of
affairs.
A French professor, whom I met on the journey out, was welcomed in Peking
by old students who attended his lectures at the Sorbonne, and he told me
afterwards of the extraordinary warmth of their reception and recognition
of indebtedness for his teaching. When he left they told him that they
were sending him a tribute of gratitude; some months later he received
a very costly cloisonné vase, made expressly for him and bearing an
inscription, with the names of the donors incorporated in the design. The
professor, when he showed me the vase and its case, was evidently deeply
impressed by this unique experience in a long teaching career.
Peking is a most fascinating city, and the new and old jostle one another
strangely. Some writers tell you the old has quite vanished, but they
are entirely wrong: even the old camel caravans—than which nothing can
be more picturesque—may be seen wending their leisurely way beneath its
ancient walls, to the clanking music of their bells. The city dates
back to two hundred years B.C., and it has been the real capital of the
Empire since the thirteenth century A.D. It consists of two cities,
called the Outer and the Inner City; they lie side by side—one square
and one rectangular. Each city is surrounded by its own wall: that of
the Inner being thirty-seven feet high, fifty-two feet wide at the
top, and it is thirteen miles in extent. The other city wall is not so
lofty. Sixteen great gateways lead into this marvellous city, where
within another wall is the old Imperial City. The legation hotels, post
offices (there are _six foreign_ post offices), shops and banks, etc.,
and also a native business quarter, are all in the Inner city, which
is becoming very cosmopolitan, and is increasing rapidly. The numerous
Government buildings are all in the Inner city—Council of State, Foreign
Office, Finance, Home, Communications, Navy, War, Judiciary, Education,
Agriculture and Commerce Departments.
Peking is now becoming a great centre of Western learning, and the
Rockefeller Institution aims at becoming the main School of Medicine and
Scientific Research in China. Its beautiful roofs, in the old Chinese
style, have been built regardless of cost: two million gold dollars will
not cover the initial expense of this place, and money has been poured
out like water to secure not only the best equipment, but also the best
brains.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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