Hangchow is the starting-place for that wonder of the world, the Grand
Canal, which stretches nine hundred miles, and part of which was built
nearly five hundred years B.C., with solid stone walls. It is spanned
in places by beautiful bridges, sometimes a single arch and sometimes
several. The bridges of China are very varied and most beautiful; in no
other part of the world have such remarkable blocks of stone been used
in their construction, and it is impossible to understand how some of
them were placed in their present position. The heavy floods in Fukien
prevented my visiting the most celebrated one near Chuan Chow, called
Lo-yung-kio; it is three thousand six hundred feet in length and fifteen
feet wide. Some of the granite monoliths stretching from one abutment
to another actually measure as much as sixty feet in length, so we were
told by an English captain who had measured them. As there are only
twenty abutments, it is obvious they must be very wide apart. In all such
bridges that I have seen, the spaces between the abutments vary in size.
Even small bridges, like one on the West Lake near Hangchow, are often
quite interesting because of their architectural qualities, the artist’s
touch being very marked. The Chinese never seem to grudge labour in the
beautifying of things great or small, important or unimportant, which
gives one great joy in using the common things of daily life. It is as if
the workman worked for sheer creative joy and regardless of recompense.
If a man, for instance, engraves a line drawing in the hinge of a door,
where it will practically be always out of sight, what motive can he have
save the creative faculty?
Hangchow is situated at the mouth of the Tsientang-kiang, a most
important waterway for the trade from Kiang-si, which comes down on
peculiar junks, sixty feet long and ten feet wide.
There is a remarkable tide bore at the river’s mouth; at full tide there
is a column of water six feet high which rushes furiously in from the
sea, and which is a source of great danger to shipping. This is a sight
well worth seeing.
From Shanghai we went down the coast by the steamer _Sinkiang_ to Hong
Kong, only putting into Amoy on the way, and enjoying a few hours ashore
with friends. They urged us to come and stay with them, an invitation
which I gladly accepted later on. The sea was kind to us most of the
way, and we accomplished the journey in four days, reaching Hong Kong
at 8 a.m. Here we found the housing problem as acute as at home, and
were thankful to be taken in at a delightful house for ladies, called
the Helena May Institute. It was the greatest boon to me not only then,
but when I returned in July to join the ship for England. The house is
beautifully situated and strongly to be recommended to ladies travelling
alone.
We were delayed some ten days waiting for a boat to Haiphong, as coasting
steamers seem peculiarly uncertain in their sailings.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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