We entered the dragon gate, over
which was inscribed the legend “Blessing to all who come.”
A party of Chinese women had actually climbed all the way up on their
tiny feet and welcomed us with charming courtesy. After they had chatted
for a few moments they turned in absorbed interest to their religious
duties: cash were dropped in the box, incense lighted and due obeisances
and prayers offered to the god carved in the solid wall of rock.
The view from the terrace was sublime, and far below the water was dotted
with white sails that looked like insects on its surface. The overhanging
cliff was of great height, and there was a sheer drop of hundreds of feet
to the narrow belt of cornland on the margin of the lake, whose further
shore was lost in the midday haze. The lake is called K’un-Yang-Hai; it
is forty miles long and from five to eight miles wide; no wonder the
people call it the “sea”! As we came down we noticed some scribbling on
one of the temples “against Japanese goods,” with a rough drawing of a
man with a pistol. Everywhere this hatred is shown in one form or another.
We had much interesting talk with an Englishman in our hotel, who had
been there for more than six months trying to establish trade relations
with the local authorities on behalf of his firm. The mineral wealth of
Yünnan is proverbially great: it has rich mines of gold, silver, copper,
iron, lead, coal, zinc, tin, and also salt and petroleum wells. The ores
are of good quality and easily extracted, so that Yünnan has boundless
wealth, if she chooses to develop it. But the Yünnanese are thoroughly
unprogressive and a lazy, lethargic people, very different from other
Chinese. The officials absolutely declined to sell their raw products,
and it was precisely the ore which the English firm wished to buy: it
was quite useless in its manufactured form. Their envoy hoped to have
completed his business in a few weeks, but months had already elapsed,
and although he thought the end was in sight, it was still a matter of
uncertainty. Probably a substantial bribe would have accelerated matters;
but not only is bribery unworthy of our trade traditions, but in the long
run injurious to trade itself. The trade relations of China are by no
means easy, and all nations are bidding for special facilities.
What a pity that the world as a whole cannot be converted to the policy
of Free Trade! What a clearing of the moral atmosphere it would make;
and what temptations would be saved to frail human nature!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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