We were more and more enchanted with the fine scenery as we rose to
greater heights. White and yellow jasmine, white and yellow Banksia
roses, both single and double, filled the air with their fragrance, and
vivid bushes of azalea made glorious patches of colour on the steep
hill-sides. At night we were about sixty-four hundred feet up, and in
the daytime we climbed to considerably higher altitudes. The dangers of
the road were supposed to be increasing as we neared the picturesque
town of Malong, so our military escort rose to ten, further supported by
two policemen not in uniform. Other travellers eagerly took advantage
of their protection and we looked quite an imposing procession. The way
led up very steep mountains and dived sharply down into deep valleys.
Trees full of white or pale mauve blossom were numerous, and scarlet
azalea made a fine contrast. The people in the villages looked hideously
poor and degraded, some of them obviously imbeciles and many with
large goitres: in some villages there were fifty per cent. suffering
from goitre; the beggars were simply terrifying. Again we had a severe
thunderstorm, which came on quite suddenly when we were lunching by the
wayside, and we made ourselves as small as possible in crevices of the
rock. Our poor coolies got very wet and took us at a great pace, as soon
as the rain stopped, to our next halting-place—Malong. The temperature
was 61°.
The night was stormy, and in the morning clouds betokened the
thunderstorm which soon broke, driving us to take scanty refuge in the
crevices of the hill-side. We were glad to reach a mission station early
in the afternoon at Küticul, where we stayed the night. We heard much
about the poverty of the district and the increasing cultivation of
opium poppy. It is tragic to see this when a few years ago the land was
filled with crops needed for the daily food of the people. In some parts
half the crops are opium, and it demands a great deal of labour! The land
has to be twice ploughed, the second time crosswise, well manured, and
the seed (mixed with four times its quantity of sand) is sown three times
between October and March. After the sowing the land has to be harrowed,
then the young plants are hoed and weeded, generally by the women and
children. I have seen the women sitting on stools to do it on account
of their poor little bound feet. This weeding goes on from early spring
till the poppy flowers—generally in May. The petals fall quickly and the
capsule swells till it is about one and a half inches in diameter; this
takes about nine to fifteen days. A special instrument has to be used
to make an incision three-quarters of the way round the capsule, and
this must be done with care as it must not penetrate more than a certain
depth, or the juice will flow inward instead of outward. The incision
is generally made after the middle of the day, on account of the heat,
and the juice must be collected next morning, being scraped off with
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