The journey in China itself lasted six months. We reached Shanghai
February 1, via the United States, and at once went by rail to Taiyuanfu,
the capital of Shansi. Visitors to China nowadays can get on fairly
comfortably without any knowledge of the language, if they keep to the
beaten track. The railway runs from Shanghai up to Peking, and only two
changes have to be made during the journey of two days and a night;
the first is at the Pukow ferry, a very easy matter and well arranged.
The train goes down to the Yangtze at Chen Kiang, and the steam tug
takes you across in about ten minutes. At the other side we got into a
more comfortable train where we had secured sleeping places; in all the
long-distance trains there are restaurant cars, where you can get fairly
good meals at reasonable prices.
The next afternoon we reached Tientsin at 4.40, and had to change into
a crowded train to Peking; there is always, I believe, a sort of free
fight to get in at all, and the weakest go to the wall, except in the
case of children, for the Chinese are very fond of children, and never
fail to make room for them. Peking is reached by 8 p.m. After leaving the
train we passed through two great old gateways, linking Past and Present,
to another railway station close at hand, and had only sufficient time
to get our luggage through the customs, and to start at 9.30 on the
Peking-Hankow line for the junction at Shihchiah Chwang. It is not
pleasant to do cross-country travelling in any country at night, and to
reach a place at 4.20 a.m. on a cold February morning where you have to
change stations would be far too difficult a matter for foreigners were
it not for mission friends. They never seem to think anything of such
trifles as spending nights looking after helpless travellers. We soon got
all our goods and chattels out, and handed them over to a Chinese, whom
our friend had engaged to look after them till the train left at 7 a.m.
for Taiyuanfu. Meanwhile he escorted us to a clean inn, and comforted
us with tea and cake and bedding till it was time to start. The bright
cold dawn saw us off once more at 6 o’clock, rather enjoying a walk to
the station; there we got into quite a comfortable train, and our friend
travelled with us back to his own station, the first up the line. All day
we passed through fascinating scenery, often following the course of a
river, where turbine water-wheels in groups were busy grinding corn.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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