The dinner was served up in the great hall, where the Squire always held
his Christmas banquet. A blazing, crackling fire of logs had been heaped
on to warm the spacious apartment, and the flame went sparkling and
wreathing up the wide-mouthed chimney. The great picture of the crusader
and his white horse had been profusely decorated with greens for the
occasion; and holly and ivy had likewise been wreathed around the helmet
and weapons on the opposite wall. Before these stood the two Yule
candles, beaming like two stars of the first magnitude: other lights
were distributed in branches, and the whole array glittered like a
firmament of silver.
We were ushered into this banqueting scene with the sound of minstrelsy,
the old harper being seated on a stool beside the fireplace, and
twanging his instrument with a vast deal more power than melody.
The parson said grace, which was not a short, familiar one, such as is
commonly addressed to the Deity in these unceremonious days; but a long,
courtly, well-worded one of the ancient school.
There was now a pause, as if something was expected; when suddenly the
butler entered the hall with some degree of bustle; he was attended by a
servant on each side with a large wax-light, and bore a silver dish, on
which was an enormous pig’s head, decorated with rosemary, with a lemon
in its mouth, which was placed with great formality at the head of the
table. The moment this pageant made its appearance, the harper struck up
a flourish.
Though prepared to witness many of these little eccentricities, from
being apprised of the peculiar hobby of mine host; yet, I confess, the
parade with which so odd a dish was introduced somewhat perplexed me,
until I gathered from the conversation of the Squire and the parson that
it was meant to represent the bringing in of the boar’s head: a dish
formerly served up with much ceremony, and the sound of minstrelsy and
song, at great tables on Christmas Day. ‘I like the old custom,’ said
the Squire, ‘not merely because it is stately and pleasing in itself,
but because it was observed at the College of Oxford, at which I was
educated. When I hear the old song chanted, it brings to mind the time
when I was young and gamesome--and the noble old college-hall--and my
fellow-students loitering about in their black gowns: many of whom, poor
lads, are now in their graves!’
The table was literally loaded with good cheer, and presented an epitome
of country abundance, in this season of overflowing larders. A
distinguished post was allotted to ‘ancient sirloin,’ as mine host
termed it: being, as he added, ‘the standard of old English hospitality,
and a joint of goodly presence, and full of expectation.’
[Illustration: The little beings were as happy about him as the mock
fairies about Falstaff]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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