American fiction -- 19th century; Christmas stories, American
We have seen the great Passion Play, and the day is nearly over which we
have anticipated so long, and to which every plan has been made
subservient, since we crossed the ocean. And now, while the streets are
full of people and the twilight shadows are falling over Mt. Kofel,
where the tall cross shows so conspicuously, I sit down to write my
impressions of the wonderful drama, which, during the summer, has
attracted nearly 100,000 visitors to this little, quiet, old-fashioned
town, among the hills of Bavaria. The high and the low, the rich and the
poor, the titled lord and the lowly peasant meet here together, jostling
side by side, sharing the same fatigue and discomfort, and deeming
neither too great a price to pay for the object they have in view.
Before speaking of the play in detail, it may not be out of place to say
something of the way to reach Oberammergau, and of the town itself; and
so, first, the journey there.
Nearly all the Americans and English who visit Oberammergau, make Munich
their starting-point; consequently the city is at this season crowded to
its utmost capacity, and reminds one of Philadelphia during the
Centennial. Naturally a great deal of anxiety is felt by the tourist
with regard to his pilgrimage to the valley of the Ammer, especially as
he hears such exaggerated accounts of the difficulties to be encountered
on the way, and he is at times half tempted to give it up as something
unattainable. When we reached Munich, on Friday, August 20th, and made
inquiries at our hotel as to the probability of our getting tickets for
August 29th, we were looked upon as lunatics for entertaining such a
thought.
It was impossible under any circumstances to procure a place for the
29th, we were told by the clerk. There would be at least 6,000 people
there, with accommodations for 2,000, and our only way was to wait
quietly at the hotel until Sunday, the 29th; then take Gaze’s tickets,
which were to be had in the office for forty-five marks each, and go to
see the play on Monday, as it was sure to be repeated.
Gaze, let me say, is an enterprising English tourist agent, who has
opened a hotel at Oberammergau, and advertizes to board and lodge you
for two days and carry you to and from the railway station at Murnau,
where you leave the cars, for forty-five marks, which are equal to
$11.25 of American money,—a pretty good price, it seemed to us, to pay
for two days’ board and a drive of sixteen miles; but we accepted it as
inevitable, and settled down quietly to wait, until Providence threw in
our way an English clergyman, who changed our plans entirely.
“Don’t believe one word they tell you at the hotels,” he said. “They
wish to keep you here as long as possible. Don’t listen to them. Don’t
touch a Gaze ticket. Don’t touch a Cook ticket. Don’t touch anybody’s
ticket, but just run your own canoe.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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