American fiction -- 19th century; Christmas stories, American
On second considerations I am inclined to think he did not use that last
expression, which I believe is purely American, but that was what he
meant, and he went on to say: “Write to the burgomaster yourself and ask
for the highest priced tickets. You’ll not get them, but you will get
something. Neither will he answer your letter, but your name will be
recorded and remembered when you prefer your claim. Go on Friday by the
early train to Murnau, where you will find hundreds of carriages waiting
to take you to Oberammergau, and once there, get a place for yourself at
half the sum charged by Gaze or his agents.”
We followed the Englishman’s advice and wrote to the burgomaster, and on
Friday took the train for Murnau, distant from Munich sixty miles, and
from Oberammergau sixteen. Here we expected our troubles to commence,
for we doubted a little our English friend’s story of the carriages
waiting for us there; but he was right. There were hundreds of
them,—vehicles of every kind,—some good enough for a princess, and some
which looked as if Eve herself might have driven in them, had driving
been one of her pastimes. I even noticed a cow and a horse harnessed
together, but I hardly think they were there for the purpose of getting
passengers. At all events we did not take that establishment, but
chartering one, which had a pair of strong looking horses, we were soon
started on what proved to be the pleasantest drive we ever experienced,
and one we shall never forget.
There are two routes from Murnau to Oberammergau,—one through the little
village of Oberau and up the famous Mt. Ettal, which is so steep and
long that passengers are obliged to walk up it, or as a writer has
expressed it, “Rich and poor have to struggle with the steepness of Mt.
Ettal for over half an hour, while a pair of the best horses are
struggling hard to draw up an empty carriage.” Marvelous stories are
told of people who have had the apoplexy, and of horses which have died
toiling up this hill, and as none of our party had a fancy to try it, we
chose the other, and to my mind the pleasanter route of the two. It is a
little longer than the one through Ettal, but the road winds alternately
up and over hills neither too long or tiresome, and down through grassy
valleys fresh from a recent shower and sweet with the perfume of new
mown hay, and into which little brooks came tumbling from the mountains
which shelter Oberammergau and which are always in view. Long before we
reached the town I singled out one tall peak which from its peculiar
shape attracted my curiosity and which I found to be the far-famed
Kofel, on which the cross is erected and which bends over the little
hamlet as if in benediction. For this peak the people have a kind of
superstitious reverence, and when asked to repeat their play in America,
they replied, “We would do so gladly, but we must bring our Kofel with
us.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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