Quite recently it was said to me by a man who had been holiday-making in
Switzerland, that he greatly missed the Alps in every home landscape.
The remark was made on the Knock of Crieff, one beautiful afternoon in
the late autumn, when the sun was setting and the after-glow lay like a
purple semi-transparent mist all along Glenartney from Ben Ledi to
Comrie. I felt rich enough in the enjoyment of the surpassing loveliness
of our own Strath to say "Laich in"--(I would not hurt any person's
feelings for the world)--"Plague take your Alps, with their sky-scraping
ridges and peaks and winding sheets of snow,--we don't want them here;
they would simply spoil a scene like that before us." I don't know, and
may never know, the meaning my companion read into my silence. Having
shortly before made the frank confession that I had never seen the Alps,
he may have intended to excite envious feelings within me, and imagined
he had succeeded. But I can deny the fact with a good conscience, and
until some benevolent person shall give me the opportunity of making a
comparison between home and foreign landscapes, I shall continue to
assert--happy in my ignorance, it may be, but still happy--that there is
no fairer prospect upon earth than the Strath of Earn from the Knock of
Crieff. "Where ignorance is bliss, 'tis folly to be wise."
Let me adventure to describe it. Right opposite to the south-west is
Turleum--rising to the height of 1300 feet--the highest hill in Scotland
wooded to the top, as our local boast was--shorn of its beauty somewhat
in recent years, but, although bare, still picturesque enough with its
comb of sturdy fir-trees, survivors from the destructive gale of
November, 1893. To the right of it, and running due west, is the pass
into the misty hill country by Comrie and St Fillans--the glen of Bonnie
Kilmeny and Dunira. Midway between us and the mouth of the pass is a
miniature Turleum--Tomachastel to wit, the site of the old Castle of the
Earn, famous in the days when the Celtic Earls of Strathearn were a power
in the land. Lovers of the old ways were these proud and wily
Earls--fiercely impatient of the incoming Saxon customs which found
favour at the Court of Malcolm Canmore and his sons--genuinely pious men,
too, in some instances--(did not Earl Gilbert found or endow Inchaffray,
so that masses might be said for his soul?)--of a keen courage as with
Earl Malise, who at the Battle of the Standard dared his mail-clad
fellows--the barons of King David--to show themselves a single foot in
advance of his naked breast. Right worthy and most noble men they were
in their noblest--they were not all so--cherishers of the national spirit
in the dreary times that followed upon the death of Alexander III. at
Kinghorn, like the one who gave a fair daughter of the house and land in
tocher to the son of Sir Andrew Moray, patriot and friend of Wallace, in
whom the Morays of Abercairny find their origin. Such were the men; and
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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