The Ochil range--memorial of fierce volcanic action when the lower old
red sandstone was being deposited in the inland lake which stretched from
east to west across the Lowlands of Scotland, and away southward without
a break to the southern uplands, close to the border of England;--this
Ochil range, which means high ground, as Glenogle means high glen, bounds
our view to the south-east. It has no towering peaks, but Bencleuch and
its neighbour, King Seat, command magnificent panoramic views to north
and south from an elevation of 2000 feet. The gap before us is
Gleneagles,--Glen-eccles--Kirk glen--one of the passes into the Lowlands
of Fife and Kinross, by which, it may be, Agricola found his way into
Strathearn after the conquest of Fife. In the very heart of the Ochils
its name changes from Gleneagles to Glendevon. Here again we are upon
classic ground--in the vale of the clear winding Devon, which more than
any other stream recalls Yarrow with its hills green to the top and its
pastoral melancholy. And let me note the fact that here, too, is the
tiniest and daintiest parish church in Scotland--the outpost of the
Presbytery of Auchterarder in this direction.
Between us and the gap, but much nearer the gap, is a bit of rising
ground, running eastward almost parallel with the Ochils, with a downward
slope from west to east, upon which may be seen, if the atmosphere is
clear, smoking chimneys and a faint ruddy hue, as if with the memory of
tiles now discarded for the prosaic if more permanent roofing slate.
That is the "lang toon" of Auchterarder, climbing up the slope somewhat
after the fashion of the Canongate and High Street of Edinburgh, not so
conspicuously or hurriedly, however, as if aware that there was no Castle
Rock from which to view the fertile Strath below. An ancient place,
truly, pedigreed, but by no means penniless, the Presbytery seat, famous
in ecclesiastical annals for its creed, crotchets, and conflicts;
resonant, too, in profane history for its fifty drawbridges--the gift of
the imagination and pawky Scotch humour of George Buchanan, Latinist,
publicist, and tutor to that high and mighty Prince, the British Solomon,
James I. of England and VI. of Scotland. The drawbridges are no more,
for the "lang toon" is a burgh now, with a douce Provost of its own, and
Bailies, and such like novel things and persons. But this we cannot tell
from our present standpoint, and we might easily persuade ourselves this
afternoon that Auchterarder has suffered no sea change, were it not that
every now and again the columns of our local newspaper foam under the
rage of its municipal contendings.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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