Cities of Belgium: Grant Allen's Historical GuidesAllen, Grant
History
Cities of Belgium: Grant Allen's Historical Guides
Allen, Grant
Belgium -- Guidebooks
Now, go round to the L., into the little triangular Place known as the
Marché aux Gants, to view the main =West Front=, best seen from the apex
of the triangle opposite. It has a fine central Portal and West Window,
flanked by two great towers, the southern incomplete. Its niches have
statues of six only out of the Twelve Apostles. The =northern tower=, up
to the first gallery, is middle Gothic of 1352-1449. The upper portion,
with the octagonal lantern of very open work, flanked by projecting
pinnacles, tied by small buttresses, is in later flamboyant Gothic, and
was erected in 1502-1518, by Dominic de Waghamakere, the architect of
the Gothic portion of the Town Hall at Ghent. This florid spire has been
excessively praised above its merits, but will hardly satisfy a modern
taste. It can be ascended (75 c.), but is dark and steep: the view,
though fine, hardly repays the trouble.
The =well= in the Marché aux Gants, near the front of the Cathedral, has
a beautiful wrought-iron canopy, to support its lid, said to have been
made by Quentin Matsys when he was a blacksmith, or rather a
metal-worker, before he took to painting. (But the legend is doubtful.)
It consists of a trellis of vine, supporting wild men and women with
clubs, and capped by a figure of Brabo, the eponymous hero of Brabant,
flinging the hand of the giant Antigonus (see later, under the
Hôtel-de-Ville).
Now, continue on round the =N. Side= of the Cathedral. A few glimpses of
the =N. Transept= and Aisles, as well as of the Nave and Choir, may be
obtained as we proceed, much of it unfortunately now marred by excessive
restoration. The beautiful Choir and Apse, with their flying buttresses,
are almost entirely concealed by neighbouring houses. If these were
cleared away, a fine view would be obtained of a noble piece of
architecture, now only visible by occasional glimpses from the upper
floors of surrounding houses. This portion of the church is further
disfigured by the abrupt terminations to the roofs of the Transepts, and
by the ridiculous pepper-caster top which replaces the central spire or
_flèche_ of the original conception. Continue on through the narrow
streets till you have made a complete tour of the Cathedral and returned
to the Place Verte and the door of the =S. Transept=. The best general
view, however, is not obtainable from any of these points, but from the
Grand’ Place, and especially the upper windows of the Hôtel-de-Ville, to
be visited later.
Now, enter the Cathedral, by the door in the S. Transept. (Open, free,
from 8 to 12 on Sundays and Thursdays: or, every day, 12 to 4, on
payment of 1 franc per person. But if you wish really to inspect the
works of art it contains, pay your franc like a man, and see them at
your leisure when there are no services in progress. Fine music at High
Mass at 10 on Sundays.)
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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