Cities of Belgium: Grant Allen's Historical GuidesAllen, Grant
History
Cities of Belgium: Grant Allen's Historical Guides
Allen, Grant
Belgium -- Guidebooks
The =interior= is impressive and solemn, with its high Nave, Transepts,
and Choir, of good simple Gothic, and its _three_ rows of Aisles, the
perspective of which, with their many pillars, is extremely striking.
The Aisles, however, are unusually low in proportion to the height of
the central cruciform building. First walk down the Nave to the West
End, to form a general conception of the fine and impressive interior,
grand in its colossal simplicity, and commendably free from 18th century
disfigurements.
Now, begin at the =R. or S. Aisle=, which contains admirable modern
Stations of the Cross by Vinck and Hendrickx, excellently painted in the
archaic spirit. I do not describe these, as they need no explanation,
but each is worthy of individual attention. Do not hurry.
The _Chapel of the Sacrament_, at the end of this Aisle, has good
polychrome decoration, and fine stained glass windows (Last Supper,
1503: St. Amand converting Antwerp; St. Norbert preaching against the
heresy of Tanquelin at Antwerp, etc.): also, a reliquary of St. Roch,
and an interesting modern statue of that great plague-saint.
The =S. Transept= has a good modern stained glass window, and affords
fine views of the central Dome and Aisles.
On the _R. wall_ are the Marriage at Cana in Galilee, appropriately
painted for the Altar of the Wine-merchants, by M. de Vos (excellent for
comparison with others of the same subject), and a Last Supper by Otto
van Veen, the master of Rubens, formerly the Altar-piece of the Chapel
of the Sacrament.
The _L. wall_ of the S. Transept is occupied by =Rubens’s= great
=triptych of St. Christopher=, commonly called (from its central
portion) =**The Descent from the Cross=. This is a splendid work,
conceived (as to idea) in the mystical spirit of old Flemish art, though
carried out, of course, in the utterly different and incongruous style
of Rubens. In order to understand it we must remember that _triptychs
were usually kept closed on the altar_, and that the picture which first
met the eye was that which occupies the outer shutters. It struck the
key-note. Now, the outer shutters of this work (seldom seen, unless you
ask the Sacristan to close it) are occupied by a figure of St.
Christopher, with the hermit who directed him to Christ, accompanied by
his lantern and owl, as in the earlier St. Christopher triptych by
Memling in the Academy at Bruges. This painting was ordered from Rubens
by the Guild of Arquebusiers, whose patron is St. Christopher. On the
outside, therefore, Rubens painted the saint himself, whose name (of
course) means the Christ-Bearer. But on the inner portion he painted
three other symbolical or allusive scenes of the Bearing of Christ:
_L._, The Visitation; the unborn Christ borne by His mother: _R._, The
Presentation in the Temple; the living Christ borne by Simeon: _Centre_,
The Descent from the Cross; the dead Christ borne by Joseph of Arimathea
and the Disciples.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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