Climbing in The British Isles. Vol. 1 - EnglandHaskett Smith, W. P. (Walter Parry)
History
Climbing in The British Isles. Vol. 1 - England
Haskett Smith, W. P. (Walter Parry)
Mountaineering -- England; Mountains -- England -- Guidebooks
=Castle Rock= (C. sh. 64).--This rock in _Borrowdale_ is said to have
been crowned by a Roman fort. The west side is craggy for a couple of
hundred feet. It may serve to occupy a few odd hours for any one
stopping at _Grange_, _Rosthwaite_, or _Seatoller_.
=Caw Fell= (C. sh. 73).--The name is possibly the same as _Calf_,
_Calva_; compare also _Caudale_, _Codale_, &c. On the north side there
is a craggy bit about 200 ft. high.
=Chalk.=--Though this can hardly be regarded as a good rock for
climbing, much excellent practice can be gained on it. As a general
rule, it is only sufficiently solid for real climbing for the first
twenty feet above high-water mark, though here and there forty feet of
fairly trustworthy rock may be found. These sections of hard chalk are
invariably those which at their base are washed by the sea at high tide;
all others are soft and crumbly.
[Illustration: CHALK CLIFFS NEAR DOVER]
Whilst any considerable ascent, other than up the extremely steep slopes
of grass which sometimes clothes the gullies and faces, is out of the
question, traverses of great interest and no slight difficulty are
frequently possible for considerable distances. A good _objectif_ may be
found in the endeavour to work out a route to the various small beaches
that are cut off from the outer world by the high tide and cliffs.
The best instances of this sort of work are to be found along the coast
to the eastward of Dover (between that town and St. Margaret's). Between
the ledges by which these traverses are in the main effected, and the
beach below, scrambles of every variety of difficulty may be found, some
being amongst the hardest _mauvais pas_ with which I am acquainted.
Owing to the proximity of the ground, they afford the climber an
excellent opportunity of ascertaining the upper limit of his powers.
Such knowledge is a possession of extreme value, yet in most other
places it is undesirable to ascertain it too closely. Chalk, it must be
remembered, is extremely rotten and treacherous, very considerable
masses coming away occasionally with a comparatively slight pull. In any
place where a slip is not desirable, it is unwise to depend exclusively
on a single hold, as even the hardest and firmest knobs, that have stood
the test of years, give way suddenly without any apparent reason. The
flints imbedded in the chalk are similarly untrustworthy; in fact, if
they project more than an inch or so, they are, as a rule, insecure.
The surface of the chalk is smooth and slimy if wet, dusty if dry, and
does not afford the excellent hold obtained on granite. As a whole it
may be regarded as a treacherous and difficult medium, and one which is
likely to lead those practising on it to be very careful climbers.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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