Climbing in The British Isles. Vol. 1 - EnglandHaskett Smith, W. P. (Walter Parry)
History
Climbing in The British Isles. Vol. 1 - England
Haskett Smith, W. P. (Walter Parry)
Mountaineering -- England; Mountains -- England -- Guidebooks
For five months Ennerdale had been in a state of convulsive excitement,
for the first and last time, it is said, 'syn t' Flud'; the honour of
having enlivened the dale is fairly divided between the Deluge and the
Dog.
To see Ennerdale as it should be seen, and to get a clear idea of the
surrounding district, there is no better plan than to mount from
Buttermere to Red Pike--the Rigi of Cumberland--and from there follow
with eye and, if necessary, map the following account of a 'run,'
telling how 'oald Jobby o' Smeathat tallyho't a fox ya Sunday mworning,
just as day brak, oot ov a borran o' steeans, abeunn Flootern Tarn, i'
Herdas end; an' hoo it teukk ower be t' Cleugh gill an' t' hoonds viewt
him sa hard 'at he teuk t' Broadwater an' swam 'cross t' hee end on't,
an t' dogs went roond an' oop t' Side Wood ... an' they whisselt him oop
be t' Iron Crag, an' be t' Silver Cwove an then throo t' Pillar, an' a
gay rough bit o' grund it is. Hoo he shakt 'em off a bit theer, an' they
at him agean an' meadd o' ring amang t' rocks. Hoo they ran him roond be
Black Sail, an' Lizza hee faulds an' clam oot be t' Scarf Gap an' on to
t' Wo' heead an' they beeldit 'am onder t' Brock Steeans an' he was
seaff aneugh theer.'
With or without the fox-hunt this view from Red Pike is magnificent, yet
there are several others which run it very close. What, for instance,
can be better, just at the clearing of a shower, than the look-out from
the Pillar Fell on the opposite side of the valley? From the gloom and
grandeur around it the eye travels right along to the smiling green of
the open country beyond the lake bordered by a line of glittering sea.
This view has one drawback in that you cannot at one time be looking
both from the Pillar and at it; but then it is hardly possible to enter
Ennerdale at all without seeing this rock, the real glory of the valley,
from many effective points; and, moreover, no day there is complete
without a quiet half-hour spent in floating on the lake about sunset;
for, whether it be due to the westerly lie of the dale or to some other
cause, the fact remains that the Ennerdale sunsets are not to be beaten
among the Lakes. By the early morning light the upper part of the valley
should be explored, and the marvellous view enjoyed from Haystacks: from
the 'bulky red bluff of Grasmoor' on the right to the dark recess of
Mosedale half seen upon the left all is beautiful; separated from
Crummock and Buttermere, which are both well seen, by the steep Red Pike
range, Broadwater throws in a dash of life to relieve the desolation of
upper Ennerdale, while the richly coloured screes of Red Pike sweep down
in striking contrast to the forbidding frown of the Pillar Fell. We have
seen a fine water-colour sketch which renders this view with great
fidelity. It has additional interest as the work of the first amateur
who ever scaled the Pillar Stone--Lieut. Wilson, R.N.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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