Climbing in The British Isles. Vol. 1 - EnglandHaskett Smith, W. P. (Walter Parry)
History
Climbing in The British Isles. Vol. 1 - England
Haskett Smith, W. P. (Walter Parry)
Mountaineering -- England; Mountains -- England -- Guidebooks
=Jack's Rake= is a natural passage across the face of _Pavey Ark_ in
Langdale. The first notice ever taken of it by any but shepherds was a
note in the visitors' book belonging to the inn at Dungeon Gill by Mr.
R. Pendlebury, who spoke highly of it, considering it to be a striking
yet simple excursion among magnificent rock scenery. After a time the
world came to look at _Pavey Ark_, and seeing an impossible-looking
combination of ravine and precipice, concluded, not unnaturally, that it
must be what Mr. Pendlebury had found a pleasant yet simple stroll.
Under this delusion, they began to try to climb what is now known as the
Great Gully in _Pavey Ark_, and did not expect to find a place anything
like the real _Jack's Rake_.
Mr. Gwynne, in 1892, says of it: 'Along the face of the cliff there runs
a ledge that looks from below hardly wide enough for a cat to stand
upon. However, if an attempt is made to climb it, it will be found wide
enough for two fat men walking abreast. Towards the top it tapers off
again, and the climber will have to do a bit of scrambling to get on to
the summit of the precipice. This is a climb which offers no difficulty
whatever, unless the climber is given to attacks of giddiness, and if
that is the case there will hardly be any need to tell him that he has
no business there at all. This ledge, however, offers a multitude of
good opportunities to the climber. It runs obliquely across the face of
the precipice, but it need not necessarily be followed throughout its
length by the mountaineer who wishes for something a little more
exciting.
'About halfway up there runs on to the ledge a chimney which, when it is
not a small waterfall, forms a pleasant climb to some broken rock above,
whence the summit is easily reached. If, however, the water in the
chimney makes it uncomfortable and unpleasant for the climber, he may
still arrive at the top of it by choosing a long bit of steep smooth
rock to the left. There are two cliffs which afford fairly good hand and
foot holds, and from there the top of the chimney is attained.'
It is remarkable that a gallery more or less resembling this is found on
many of the chief precipices in the Lakes. There is a steeper one on the
Ennerdale Crags of _Great Gable_; there are two on the Ennerdale face of
the _Pillar Rock_, and on _Scafell_ the _Rake's Progress_ and _Lord's
Rake_ in their mutual relation closely resemble this rake and the wide
gully at the north end of it.
[Illustration: PAVEY ARK AND STICKLE TARN
A, Narrow gully; B, Big gully; C, D, Smaller gullies; E, Wide scree
gully. From the foot of E to A runs _Jack's Rake_.]
=Kern Knotts= are on the south side of _Gable_, close to the _Sty Head_.
There is a short but difficult gully here on the side facing Wastdale,
which was climbed by Messrs. Owen Jones and Robinson in 1893, but
described by them under the name of _Tom Blue_, a rock much higher up
the mountain.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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