Climbing in The British Isles. Vol. 1 - EnglandHaskett Smith, W. P. (Walter Parry)
History
Climbing in The British Isles. Vol. 1 - England
Haskett Smith, W. P. (Walter Parry)
Mountaineering -- England; Mountains -- England -- Guidebooks
In winter-time, when the inequalities are all smoothed over with a sheet
of hard snow, both sides of the rock are rather dangerous, but
especially the eastern, where a man who slipped would have the greatest
difficulty in stopping himself before he shot over the precipitous gully
at the end. This gully (occupying, as it were, the place of the
water-pipe) is known, in allusion to an accident which occurred there in
1883, as _Walker's Gully_.
When the question arises of how to climb the _High Man_, it is obvious
that the scree just above it will be the nearest point to the summit;
but equally obvious that the climb, though short, would be nearly
vertical. The plan which at once suggests itself for getting to the top
is to work round to the back of the rock and climb it from the top of
the ridge behind. The ridge may be reached from either side, and in this
fact we have the secret of two of the most important climbs.
So much for the general appearance of the Pillar; but the part which
admits of the easiest and most varied attack is the east wall of the
_High Man_, and of this side it is necessary to give a more detailed
description. This part of the rock is the only one which is at all well
known to the general public, and its chief features, being well marked,
have for the most part received, by common consent of climbers,
distinctive names. In order to see the formation of the rock properly it
is well worth the climber's while to descend for a few yards and mount
the _Sham Rock_ on the other side of the east scree. The peculiar
structure of the opposite wall may now be clearly seen.
[Illustration: PILLAR ROCK FROM THE SOUTH-EAST
A, _Pisgah_; B, _Jordan_; C, Summit; D, Top of _Curtain_;
E, Corner between the _Curtain_ and the main rock.]
On our left hand, between the mountain and the rock, is seen an outlying
mass severed from the High Man by a deep square-cut gap. When the Pillar
is looked at from the direction of the mountain-top, this gap is
entirely concealed by the outlying piece, which then appears to present
a fairly easy way direct to the summit. 'The climber (says Mr.
Williamson) mounts gaily and with confidence, only to find himself cut
off from the High Man by an impassable cleft.' He sees it indeed with
his eyes, but he cannot go up thither. Hence the names--_Pisgah_ for the
false rock, and _Jordan_ for the chasm. A very well-known Pillarite once
proposed to bridge the cleft with a plank or ladder and hold a tea-party
on the top. This very original idea was not carried into execution, but
certainly, without some such application, the passage of _Jordan Gap_ is
a formidable undertaking; for the north wall is only less vertical than
the other, and though barely 60 ft. high--not much more, that is, than
half as much as must be climbed by any other route--this is decidedly
one of those cases in which the longer way round will prove to be the
shorter way up.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account