Climbing in The British Isles. Vol. 1 - EnglandHaskett Smith, W. P. (Walter Parry)
History
Climbing in The British Isles. Vol. 1 - England
Haskett Smith, W. P. (Walter Parry)
Mountaineering -- England; Mountains -- England -- Guidebooks
On the extreme right--and rather below us--is the nearly level top of
the Low Man; while not far from where broken cliffs lead up to the
higher rock a curious natural post standing on the ridge marks the point
from which a small deep channel is seen to come down towards _Walker's
Gully_. This channel is of small importance, except that high up on the
southern bank of it the glacier markings are most distinctly to be seen.
The channel itself soon curves more towards the north and plunges over
the fearful cliff which faces the Liza, forming the key to the great
climb on that face. From the foot of _Jordan Gap_ a broad smooth slope
of rock runs horizontally along the face of the High Man, giving to it
somewhat the formation of the 'pent-house wall' of a tennis court. The
steepness of the scree, which runs down from left to right before our
feet, makes the drop from this slope much greater at the Low Man end;
but it will give no false idea of this side to say that, roughly
speaking, the cliff is broken into three fairly equal portions, of about
60 ft. each, namely, a vertical wall above, connected with a steep and
rugged part below by a smooth stretch sloping at an angle not far short
of 40 degrees. The importance of this 'pent-house' is very great; for,
as it gives an easy passage right across this face of the rock, every
climb which is possible from below may be cut into from the side, and
thus more than half the labour of the ascent is saved. Indeed, any
mountain which allows its entire front to be traversed in this way by a
passable ledge exposes every weak point in so reckless a manner that the
attack becomes marvellously simplified.
Lastly should be noticed two rough curtains of rock which run down from
the top of the Stone near the centre, and enclose between them what is
called the _Great Chimney_. This chimney is the key to the climb on this
side. The curtain on the south of it is the only one which is at all
complete, and as it forms a kind of _arête_ running up to the summit, it
is known indifferently by either name--the _Curtain_ or the _Arête_.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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