Climbing in The British Isles. Vol. 1 - EnglandHaskett Smith, W. P. (Walter Parry)
History
Climbing in The British Isles. Vol. 1 - England
Haskett Smith, W. P. (Walter Parry)
Mountaineering -- England; Mountains -- England -- Guidebooks
The easiest way to picture to oneself the features of the Great Chimney
is to imagine a huge armchair, the 'seat' of which measures 20 yards
from back to front and is tipped uncomfortably forward and downward at
an angle of nearly 45 degrees. The _Curtain_ forms the right 'arm,' and
from a level with the top of the 'back,' which is 50 ft. high, runs down
very nearly but not quite as far as the front edge of the 'seat.' In
the narrow space thus left lies the _Ledge_, which makes it possible to
pass round under the end of the arm and gain the 'seat,' which is called
the _Steep Grass_. The same point may also be reached by climbing, as an
alternative to the _Ledge_, over the lower part of the 'arm' through a
deep nick--the _Notch_; and in either case the joint between 'arm' and
'back,' being badly cracked, offers an easy way (the 'small chimney' or
'jammed-stone chimney') of reaching the top of the back, which is the
edge of a small plateau forming the summit of the High Man. Lastly, it
should be noticed that the _Steep Grass_ can only be reached from below
by a severe climb of 70 ft.--the _Great Chimney_ climb.
The side from which the Pillar is commonly climbed is not that by which
the summit was first attained. The first successful attempt was made
from the West, and it is doubtful whether for a quarter of a century any
other route was known. But on the discovery of the Easy Way the older
route was forgotten, and now enjoys a reputation for difficulty which is
not deserved: it is looked upon as some little distinction to have
accomplished it. In the preface to one of Wordsworth's poems the year
1826 is mentioned as the date of the first ascent. This is confirmed by
a comparison of the second and third editions of Otley's 'Guide' (1825
and 1827), in the former of which the rock is declared unclimbable,
while the latter mentions the victory of 'an adventurous shepherd.' The
successful climber was not, however, a shepherd, but a cooper, named
Atkinson, and living at Croftfoot, in Ennerdale. It is likely that his
adventurous soul may have been fired by Otley's declaration that the
rock was inaccessible. The perseverance of a friend has hunted out a
contemporary notice of the ascent in the county paper, which remarks
that, 'though the undertaking has been attempted by _thousands_, it was
always relinquished as hopeless.' This proves, at all events, that even
then the rock had a reputation. Subjoined is a list of those who have
followed on Atkinson's track, so far as is known, up to 1873:
J. Colebank (shepherd);
W. Tyson (shepherd), and J. Braithwaite (shepherd);
Lieut. Wilson, R.N.;
C.A.O. Baumgartner;
M. Beachcroft and C. Tucker.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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