Climbing on the Himalaya and Other Mountain RangesCollie, Norman
History
Climbing on the Himalaya and Other Mountain Ranges
Collie, Norman
Himalaya Mountains; Mountaineering
As Woolley and I saw several more summits on our ridge (the
Langstrandtinder) towards the north-east, we started off for them after
we had fully exhausted the view, and smoked as many pipes as were
necessary to produce a sensation of rest. In fact, to me one of the
chief reasons for moving on to the next peak was that again I might
have the excuse for being lazy, again look at the sky, the far-off
mountains, and the endless expanse of the sea beyond. The climbing
along the ridge was easy, and two more summits were ascended; a small
cairn was left on each of their tops.
Further progress along the ridge was, however, impossible, for a
deep gap of about five hundred feet cut us off from the next peak.
We therefore descended on the north side of the mountain to a steep
snow slope, which led down for several hundreds of feet to the glacier
below. Thence following our route of the morning we descended the steep
rock face above our camp, and got home in time for dinner.
During the next two days we paid a part of our penalty for being on
the shores of the Gulf Stream. Clouds hid the mountains, and rain and
dull weather kept us at sea-level. But magnificent weather followed
on August 7, and we were all impatient to start for the virgin peak,
Higraf Tind, 3780 feet, the second highest mountain in Lofoten.
In order to get to the base of the mountain we rowed in our boat across
the small arm of the Östnes Fjord, by whose shores we were camped,
and beached our boat at Liland. Thence making our way through the
thickets of dwarf birch up the lower stretches of the small valley
of Lilandsdal, we arrived at the foot of the great precipice which
constitutes the upper part of the mountain.
Rimming the head of the valley was the rocky ridge which connects
Higraf Tind with Gjeitgaljar. To follow this ridge to the summit of our
mountain would have necessitated climbing over various pinnacles and
notches, and as we were very sceptical as to whether we should be able
to surmount these difficulties, we turned to our left along a small
ledge which appeared to run in and out of the gullies that seamed this
southern face of Higraf Tind.
On more than one occasion we found ourselves in places where great
care was necessary, and our spirits rose and fell as we either found
a narrow ledge which would safely lead us into one of the many rock
gullies and out again on the far side, or were forced back to try
higher up or lower down on the face of the mountain.
Eventually we emerged on the arête which led up to the topmost peak.
The summit of the mountain consisted of huge monoliths of what I should
call granite (it may, however, be gabbro), similar in appearance to
those on the top of the Charmoz, and also similar to the Charmoz in
being very narrow with tremendous precipices on each side.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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