Climbing on the Himalaya and Other Mountain RangesCollie, Norman
History
Climbing on the Himalaya and Other Mountain Ranges
Collie, Norman
Himalaya Mountains; Mountaineering
The views from our camp, although rather restricted, were occasionally
most beautiful, when during the long summer nights the peaks at the
head of the Östnes Fjord to the north-west were a dark purple against
the evening sky. Opposite to us was the peak Gjeitgaljar, a veritable
little Dru in appearance, and in front of it a ridge of pinnacles that
looked hopelessly inaccessible.
Every few moments some change in light and shade or in colour would
shift over the landscape. As soon as we had got our camp into order,
Woolley and I determined to start the attack on the mountains at once.
As far as we knew, all the peaks on the east side of the fjord were
unclimbed. We were not joined by Hastings and Priestman, they having
to return to Svolvaer for some more baggage. Straight behind our camp
the hill-side rose sheer; up these precipitous slabs of glacier-worn
rock we made our way, using the small ledges on which grew grass and
moss. So steep was the mountain-side that when a spot was reached fully
a thousand feet above our camp, it looked as if we could almost have
thrown a stone on to the white tents below by the water's edge.
After that we came to more easy travelling, still, however, over
glaciated rocks, finally reaching a small glacier.
All along the head of the glacier were precipitous rocks, rising here
and there to peaks forming the watershed of the island. At the head and
towards the right lay a snow col, filling a deep gap in the rock wall
in front of us. Towards this we made our way. The ascent of the ridge
from this col to the left was by no means easy climbing, and we soon
found that ridge-climbing in the Lofoten, even though there was no ice
on the rocks, was often difficult and sometimes impossible. Eventually,
by a series of traverses on the south-east side and by climbing up
some cracks, we succeeded in reaching our first summit. Here a cairn
was built, and I photographed an exceedingly tame ptarmigan in the
foreground against an excessively savage-looking peak in the background
named Rulten. We were at a height of about 3000 feet. Rulten, from
where we were, looked hopelessly inaccessible; but Higraf Tind, the
second highest peak in Lofoten, when examined through a glass, promised
not only a fine climb, but also success.
One of the great charms of climbing in Lofoten is that to hurry is
unnecessary, for it is daylight through all the twenty-four hours: a
night out on the mountains in darkness is impossible. Moreover, owing
to the comparative smallness of the mountains more than one first
ascent may be made in a morning or an afternoon.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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